Tag Archives: Cretan resistance

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – General Kreipe arrives in the UK

PW capture report on Kreipe

This is the last post in the series created by the excellent Chris White. He first published this on Facebook in 2020. During the first months of the pandemic, I was copying and pasting and adding his pictures to recreate here on the Paddy blog. I know that many of you have enjoyed this and your comments are appreciated. There will be a couple of follow on posts to tidy up this series, but once more, a huge round of thanks to Chris. 

29th May 1944. General Kreipe arrives in the UK after a brief period of time in Cairo being interrogated. Again, it is front page news.

Kreipe in UK 1

A personal perspective of the kidnap of General Kreipe by Billy Moss’ daughter

As we come towards the end of the account of the kidnap I would like to share with you the text of a talk given in April by Gabriella Bullock (née Moss) – Billy Moss’ daughter – to her local history group. It recounts the story of the kidnap but includes many personal perspectives, particularly about Billy, and an important German perspective on the ‘reprisals’. At the end Gabrilla mentions the two annual prizes set up in her father’s name at the University of Crete. These are funded mostly by the royalties from his books and other work. 

Over to Gabriella …

In 1940 Winston Churchill launched the Special Operations Executive (SOE), with the rousing injunction to ‘set Europe ablaze’. I shall be speaking today about my father, William Stanley Moss – and the 1944 operation in which he was involved with Patrick Leigh Fermor, both British SOE agents. This was the abduction carried out by the two of them, together with a trusted handful of Cretan Resistance fighters, of General Heinrich Kreipe, Commander at that time of German Forces on occupied Crete. My father’s book Ill Met by Moonlight describes it all. It was a bestseller later made into an Emeric/Pressburger film, which I imagine most have you have seen – they tend to roll it out at Christmas.

To give you a bit of background first. My father was born in 1921 in Yokohama, Japan, where his family was living, and where his father was a businessman. His mother was a White Russian whose family had escaped the Revolution. When my father was two years old Yokohama was entirely destroyed in the Great Kanto earthquake; the family survived and returned at that point to settle in England. They travelled a great deal, however, and my father claimed to have voyaged around the world twice before his teens. Known as Billy, he was a much-loved only child, and his adventurous spirit was given fairly free rein. Treasure Island was and remained his favourite book. Also encouraged were his artistic and writing talents, and his love of animals. He was schooled at Charterhouse, leaving in 1939 before his 18th birthday, and before the outbreak of war.

He was commissioned into the Coldstream Guards in 1941, having trained at Caterham and Sandhurst. He served 18 months in and around London, on the King’s Guard, with a period of guarding Rudolph Hess, and a spell of Churchillian duty at Chequers – all thrilling for a junior officer – before suddenly being sent to join the 3rd Battalion the Coldstream in the Middle East. He saw action for the first time in the Desert Campaign with Montgomery’s Eighth Army, chasing Rommel across North Africa, after Alamein. Following a spell in Pantelleria, Italy, he parted from his regiment and headed for Cairo, and in September 1943, he volunteered to join Force 133 of SOE.

Meanwhile, at 22 years old he was the youngest inmate of the house known as Tara – which grew into something of a Cairo legend as a centre of uproarious and eccentric fun when its housemates were on leave. These were other SOE agents and included David Smiley and Billy McLean who worked together in Albania and the Balkans, Xan Fielding and Patrick Leigh Fermor – known as Paddy – these two were well embedded in the Cretan resistance and Paddy had already spent some two years in the mountains disguised as a shepherd. He had an almost Byronic love and affinity for Greece and Crete. He was fluent in Greek and many other languages, and would recite reams of epic poetry at the drop of a hat.

I can’t resist sharing with you this description of him, later in life, by his friend the writer Lawrence Durrell, when Paddy was staying with him in Cyprus:

After a splendid dinner by the fire Paddy starts singing, songs of Crete, Athens, Macedonia. When I go out to refill the ouzo bottle…. I find the street completely filled with people listening in utter silence and darkness. Everyone seems struck dumb. I catch sight of Frangos, who says ‘Never have I heard of Englishmen singing Greek songs like this!’ Their reverent amazement is touching; it is as if they want to embrace Paddy wherever he goes.

My father too was under his spell.

Paddy was 29 at the time of the abduction. He was less of a professional soldier than my father, with less experience of conventional warfare. He had served for a short time with the Irish Guards but his disposition was much more suited to undercover work with SOE. Eventually – but not without dissenting voices – he was granted permission by HQ to carry out the kidnap operation. He asked my father to join him as his second-in-command, who leapt at the chance.

Paddy wrote an Afterword for the 2001 edition of Ill Met by Moonlight. Writing from a historical perspective, he is at pains to insist that the kidnap was carefully planned – that it was the result of an idea of long and complex gestation. He longs to dispel the notion that it was somehow a tremendous jape. It is also true, however, that all the Tara inmates had had a great time adding their ha’penny-worth, towels around their middles, famously drawing plans and diagrams on a steamy bathroom wall.

Afterwards, one wireless announcer said, ‘of all the stories that have come out of the War this is the one which schoolboys everywhere will best remember’. Paddy’s words cannot stifle the ebullience of this story. Its enduring appeal hinges on a mix of danger and courage with dare-devilry, and on the fact that its aim was not destruction of any kind, but simply, with the co-operation of a huge swathe of the unbowed and complicit population, to get the better of the mighty Germans by stealing their general from under their noses. It was a wonderful idea. On Crete itself there is a joke that out of a population of 600,000, 599,999 were involved.

The German invasion of Crete in 1941 had been, uniquely, an airborne invasion, and The Battle of Crete raged for 11 days of total and bloody fighting. When the Germans prevailed, and thousands of British and Allied troops hurriedly evacuated as best they could be, Cretans were abandoned to their fate. In retaliation for the fierce resistance they had put up, the Germans instantly imposed a terrifying and pitiless rule on the entire population, which was enforced throughout the occupation. On the slightest pretext, or even none, there were summary executions, destructions of villages, massacres of their inhabitants, gratuitous cruelty of every kind. General Muller, commander of the German forces, was known as The Butcher of Crete, and later executed for war crimes. This was the general that Paddy and my father hoped to abduct, take prisoner and escort back to Cairo. However, in March 1944 Muller was temporarily replaced by General Kreipe who thus became the target.

In the wake of the Battle of Crete numbers of Cretan men had taken to the mountains – as they had the century before when under Turkish rule – forming and joining bands of resistance fighters. A handful of SOE agents such as Paddy then trickled into Crete to organise resistance.

I won’t narrate the full story, as many of you will have read the book or seen the film. I feel I should explain, though, that sadly I never knew my father, who died when I was a child. So, much of what I have to say is necessarily conjecture. Luckily he wrote books, letters, diaries. I shall be quoting from the fulsome contemporaneous diary that he kept, and upon which Ill Met by Moonlight is closely based.

One night in early February1944 they are flown out over Crete, and Paddy is dropped. But as the plane turns to make a second drop, clouds close in, ever more thickly, forcing the plane back to base. Subsequent attempts to reach Crete by plane and boat are all thwarted until finally, on the night of the 4th April, a small motor launch with my father on board edged towards the Cretan coast. “In the light of the half-moon the mountains loomed up large and misty-white so that it seemed that we were much, much closer”. Guided slowly in by a pinprick signal of torchlight, a dinghy landed him within wading distance and he was helped ashore by a score of hands.

“My first impressions were extraordinary – dark faces, heavy moustaches, turbaned heads, black and shabby clothes, tall boots, a hundred voices. And then I saw Paddy, and ran towards him. I can’t describe how wonderful it was to see the old son of a gun again. We talked of everything and of nothing for a few moments. Paddy looked radiantly healthy, and the sun (I think it must have been the sun) had darkened his face, so that he looked for all the world like a smuggler of old.

He had to leave me then to go and see to further unloading and to get the German POWs on board…

I saw him go off, and watched him, as he gave orders, commanded men to do this and that. I remember thinking ‘Here is the different Paddy’. He seemed to have the whole situation at his finger-tips and was capable of coping with anything”.

I wanted to read this to you to give you a flavour of it all in the diary’s words, and also because of the understated rather English way my father expresses his admiration for Paddy. Throughout the diary there never seems to be a jarring word between them. Rather, a close understanding and uncomplicated delight in each other’s company – a purity, somehow.

The beach in question had been mined, with German outposts only ¾ mile to the west and one mile to the east. Through that night their Cretan guide led them over mountains for four hours. In this way, and at each stage of the operation, the Cretans were guiding them, sheltering them, guarding them, providing for them. Taking unimaginable risks for them. Paddy always stressed that most of those involved in the kidnap were Cretan, and there was no doubt of the consequences for them of being caught. As for Paddy and Billy, Hitler’s Commando Order of 1942 was clear, stating “all enemies on so-called commando mission, whether armed or unarmed, in battle or in flight, are to be slaughtered to the last man”.

There were moments of hair-raising danger, but preparations went ahead, and the kidnap took place on the evening of the 26th April, as the General was being driven from German HQ to the Villa Ariadne, his sleeping quarters in Knossos. Paddy and Billy, in stolen German uniforms, and their team of seven Cretans, waited concealed.

At a signal that the General’s car, with its unmistakeable pennants on the front, was approaching – one hour later than expected – Paddy and Billy stepped into the road, swinging torches. The car slowed at the crossroads. Paddy cried HALT. The car stopped and they both approached it, one on each side – Billy on the driver’s side. Paddy questioned “Ist dies das General’s wagen?” “Ya, Ya” – and then they tore open the doors. The terrified chauffeur was reaching for his revolver, Billy hit him with a cosh, Paddy and Manoli pulled the General from the front seat. Struggling like mad and protesting loudly, he was bundled into the back, and sat upon by three hefty and armed Cretans, while the chauffeur was taken away by the others. Billy jumped in behind the steering wheel, and with Paddy beside him wearing the General’s hat, they set off. Paddy told the General that if he were willing to give his parole that he would neither shout nor try to escape, they would treat him not as a prisoner but as one of themselves; the General gave his parole immediately.

Billy drove the car, straight past the startled sentries guarding the Villa Ariadne, and through a number of checkpoints. At these, he slowed right down to give the sentries time to recognise the pennants, before gradually accelerating smoothly past – a tactic which seemed to work.

Their route took them through the centre of Heraklion, where, with nerve-wracking timing, a garrison cinema show had just spilled out its audience, so that the streets were milling with German soldiers, forcing them to proceed at snail’s pace. There were many more checkpoints – 22 in all, of which 5 were roadblocks – but somehow they negotiated them all.

They carried on along the coastal road and up into the mountains, and here the party split. So far, so good. Together with the Cretan team, Billy and the General set off into the mountains. Meanwhile, Paddy drove the car to a spot by the north coast, where it might seem that the occupants had left it to board a waiting submarine. He left a carefully composed and signed letter inside it. This was addressed to the German authorities and claimed full and sole British responsibility for the abduction, as well as hopefully giving the impression that the General would have already been taken off the island. The reality was that, having re-formed, the entire party was to trek over the mountains all the way across to the southern coast where hopefully there would be a rendezvous with a boat to take them to Cairo.

It had been pre-arranged with HQ that when news of the abduction broke, the BBC and other broadcasting channels would announce that General Kreipe was already on his way to Cairo. In fact, everywhere it was announced that the General was being taken off the island. This made matters for them very much worse: it was responsible for the Germans launching a full-scale manhunt.

Not only that, but the leaflets never materialised which were supposed immediately to be dropped, stating in both German and Greek that the operation had been carried out by a British raiding party – in this way, Paddy had hoped to prevent reprisals being taken on the islanders.

Over the next 19 days the party made its way across the mountains by night, taking cover in caves by day, while the full-scale manhunt picked up their trail and began to close in on them. As Billy wrote, they had everything to lose. But with their incredibly loyal tight-knit team, local lookouts and runners, they just managed to keep a step ahead of the tightening circle – fed and sheltered all the way without question and without fail.

There were of course also those whom they couldn’t trust. There was constant danger, setbacks, crises and changes of plan, failed communication systems, and mishaps of all kinds, but finally on the night of the 15th May they were safely chugging their way back to Cairo, in the same motor launch that Billy had arrived in, and their job was done.

On his return as General Commander that August, General Muller issued the following Order:

Because the town of Anogia is the centre of the English Intelligence of Crete, because the people of Anogia committed the murder of the sergeant commander of the Yeni-Gave as well as of the garrison under his orders, because the people of Anogia carried out the sabotage of Damasta, because in Anogia the guerrillas of the various groups of resistance take refuge and find protection and because it was through Anogia that the kidnappers with General Kreipe passed using Anogia as a transit camp, we order its COMPLETE DESTRUCTION and the execution of every male person of Anogia who would happen to be within the village and around it within a distance of one kilometer.

Anogia was then obliterated. Several villages in the Amari district were also razed that summer, with inhabitants rounded up and shot.

There are those who said – later –that the success of the mission came at too high a price. There were also those who had predicted such reprisals, such as Col. Sweet-Escott who as SOE Commander in the Balkans had experience of them – they were part of German policy, widely practised, and had been a ruthless feature of the occupation from its beginning.

Others, including Paddy – although he suffered lifelong agonies of doubt – believed that the meticulous care taken to avoid involving the Cretans in reprisals was in this case successful. They laid the cause of the reprisals on other factors. There was, by this stage of 1944, the question of the Germans’ imminent collapse and Muller’s strategic need to preclude attacks on his withdrawing troops. This he did by crushing centres of resistance across the whole island, the so-called ‘scorched-earth policy’, because in this way, ordinary German soldiers were compromised by participation in war crimes; this made their surrender or desertion impossible.

There were also the other attacks mentioned in Muller’s Order, such as the ambush carried out at Damasta, and attacks on Germans carried out in May by the Communist ELAS party (civil war was just over the horizon, and the Communist activists used such attacks on German targets in a cynical strategy, designed to trigger a violent response). It is also possible that Muller reversed the lenient line, which until then had been taken with regard to the bloodless Kreipe operation, out of straightforward revenge – for he must have realised he was the original-intended target.

Then there are those – perhaps especially in Crete – who are philosophical and stoical, saying that there were several factors and that Yes, perhaps the abduction was one of them; but that it was war.

Whatever the opinion expressed – and everyone in Crete has an opinion on this desperately emotive issue – it clearly meant a very great deal to people at the time that Paddy and my father who were British stood shoulder to shoulder with them, that they were not entirely abandoned. We see exactly this sentiment replicated right now in Ukraine. And in the midst of the humiliation of Occupation, this successful operation, which involved so many Cretans, enabled a proud people to hold up their heads. That is not nothing, nor is it forgotten.

Years later, amongst my father’s papers I found a long letter in German from a Dr. Beutin who at the time of the kidnap had been a serving German officer on Crete. The letter was dated 1950, which was the year that Ill Met by Moonlight was first published. In 1993 I had it translated and shared it with Paddy – to his great excitement, because it sheds light on the German perspective – as he wrote in a letter to me, “It really does seem that our stratagem worked and that for a very important gap in time, the contents of our letter (the one left inside the General’s car) were believed, before the enemy knew of the truth through their spies or our traitors – both, of course”.

He immediately embarked on his own translation of the letter, and tried to contact Dr. Beutin, only to discover that he had died some years before.

Among Dr. Beutin’s observations are these:

“General Kreipe arrived in Crete at the beginning of March 1944… Within a few days he became highly unpopular among the men because of his pettiness and rudeness, to officers as well…and he introduced a tone to which the men of the Division were not accustomed and which they perceived as undeserved… He always grew impatient at traffic points… where the rule was that every driver had to produce a movement-order for every journey… no exceptions to this rule were allowed, even for generals; but Kreipe deemed this unnecessary or unbecoming in his own case, and was very rude if his car was ever stopped… everyone took care not to examine his car too closely… so Kreipe was a victim of his own disobedience to orders… The soldiers were surprised but not upset that he had been abducted… in some quarters, it was maintained as a joke that the General had abducted himself. It was much discussed in officers’ messes, and many rakis were drunk to your health.”

Paddy’s response to these comments was, “I think your father was a better judge of Kreipe’s character than I was”. Let me explain.

My father was relieved that Kreipe wasn’t the raving Nazi he might well have been, and gave him credit for coping with arduous marches and hardships, especially in the early part of their trek. They did obtain a mule for him, but he had at least one nasty fall. However, my father found Kreipe increasingly difficult to please, and one day, as he perceived it, he saw an ugly side to Kreipe: throughout the afternoon, there had been the sound of explosions – it was Germans blowing up villages with dynamite, as a reprisal for a different agent’s actions. The General, with a grin, remarked that it was so easy to kill Cretans as reprisals for anything the British did. My father was appalled and could never warm to him after that incident, although two days later the General apologised and things carried on as before.

But Paddy wasn’t with them that day, and never saw that side; he saw a different side. There is a famous story – and it bears repeating. Two days after the abduction, as dawn broke over snow-covered Mount Ida (or Psiloritis, to give it its Greek name), the General quietly recited

Vides ut alta stet nive candidum Soracte “You see how Mt Soracte stands white with deep snow”

– the opening line of a Horatian ode. It was one that Paddy knew. He responded with the next line, and carried on to the end. I quote:

“The general’s blue eyes had swivelled away from the mountain top to mine – and when I’d finished, after a long silence, he said: “Ach so, Herr Major!” It was very strange. As though, for a long moment, the war had ceased to exist. We had both drunk at the same fountains long before; and things were different between us for the rest of our time together.”

Paddy loved to tell this story, and the wonder of it struck all who heard it, and the power of it only grew with time – so that it came to define his entire war, like a distillation, a jewel, that he treasured. And not surprisingly, it coloured his view of the General. Indeed, in 1972 (several years after my father’s death) there was a reunion in Athens for a sort of Greek version of This is your Life, featuring Paddy and General Kreipe and the core Cretan team – and a very jolly reunion it seemed. Kreipe was complimentary about the courteous treatment he had received as a prisoner on Crete, but he could never bring himself to say a nice word about my father, and I think I know another reason.

Some fifteen years ago, when my family was in the process of reclaiming the publishing rights to my father’s work, my husband made an interesting discovery: that when Ill Met by Moonlight was published Kreipe successfully took out an injunction against its publication in Germany, on the grounds that it falsely states that he gave his parole to Paddy that he would not try to escape. For such a senior officer to give his parole would have been highly shameful and dishonourable military conduct, and he denied it. But with the release in 2012 of classified wartime records in the National Archive, we were able to read Paddy’s report to HQ: it clearly states that parole was asked for and given. Ill Met by Moonlight has never been out of print, and it has been published in Greek, French, Spanish and Italian – but to this day, not in German.

It had been an ever-present wish of mine to go to Crete… and finally in 2010, with my husband Hugh, I made the journey. We didn’t tell Paddy or anyone else that we were going, wanting no proscribed introductions of any kind, but simply to make a private visit to see the places my father had written about. We were armed only with Ill Met by Moonlight and his other wartime memoir, A War of Shadows, and a few photographs.

In the mountain village of Kastamonitsa we got talking to a charming old man who kept a shop, and asked him for directions to the house where Billy and Paddy had stayed when making preparations for the kidnap. The old man made a phone call, and soon the street outside his little shop started to fill – news of my being there spread like wildfire – we could not believe it – shepherds with mobile phones appeared from the mountains, scions of those who had sheltered the kidnap party – we were invited into homes, feasts were prepared, glasses were raised… It was so extraordinary and so unexpected.

Over the next days we were taken up to Mount Ida – Psiloritis – along tracks and into caves where my father had trodden and slept. And then escorted to Anogia – I was so nervous about Anogia – after all, the reprisals… how dare I go there, and what would I be confronting there?

Anogia had risen phoenix-like from its ashes, the biggest village in all of Crete. The reprisals and the history were not brushed under the carpet for me – instead, wonderful guides showed us all, explained all, and then led us to meet well-known families of the Resistance… there was overwhelming hospitality, gunshots as a salute, more welcomes, more feasts, there and everywhere we went. We were taken to hideouts, to family chapels … Much later we learned more about Anogia in particular, and the dark complexities that these families had faced since helping the British – but I can only say that in our dozen or so visits to Crete since that first visit, I have on rare occasions met with reserve, but never once with hostility.

Mostly I have been deluged with goodwill, and astonished by the enthusiasm that my visit was generating. Now, as in war, it seemed that it meant a huge amount to be – how can I put it? remembered by the outside world. For their story not to be forgotten. For me this reception has been astonishing, and truly humbling. We met so many amazing people, who over these last years have become dear friends, like second families. Widows, children, even grandchildren. Even some very old but still vigorous men who remembered my father, and were with him in 1944 … they have all died now, but that was so precious!

I could tell you so many stories… I will tell you about Iorgis, from the tiny eyrie-like village of Patsos. Small and strong and wiry, he was close to ninety and almost completely blind when we met him. Much later, his daughter told us what a harsh and tragic life he’d had – we would never have guessed. He took us up to the large overhanging cave where my father was sheltered for many days – he was as sure-footed as a mountain goat and so quick we could barely keep up. He spoke no English, and we spoke no Greek. Luckily others translated for us – because as we sat down to an extraordinary instant feast, the stories were gushing out of him, and it was wonderful to see him chuckling away and so clearly enjoying his memories. He had been younger than my father, probably about 20, and he recounted how one day the two of them were out on the mountain when a German spotter plane appeared. They dived into a hollow, and my father pulled some vegetation over them, and there they stayed hidden while the plane circled and circled overhead, and my father sang It’s a long way to Tipperary. After nearly 70 years, how he laughed – this amazing man, who spoke not a single word of English – as he sang it to us!

Also in Patsos, we met Vassily who had been in the Greek Special Forces. Younger than us, and fiercely proud of his village’s history, his first words to me were “Congratulations on your father”. He told us that, to this day, the Army uses the kidnap route to train its Special Forces. And indeed people come from all over the world for expeditions along the route – have even written books about it. It is legend, and really tough. As my father wrote in his diary, “Crete appeared to be one big rock – only more so”.

After my family had successfully reclaimed the rights to Ill Met by Moonlight and my father’s other works, which happened to coincide with when we first started visiting Crete, my husband and I came to a decision. At the University of Crete we set up two annual prizes in my father’s name, funded mostly by the royalties from his books and other work. It is a world-class university which, as a result of Greece’s financial crisis, had had its budget cut by 50%.

I was very nervous at the inaugural prize-giving ceremony, that my father would be falsely presented as a sort of pure white hero for my benefit. But I need not have worried: the Dean gave an unforgettably philosophical speech, about war and atonement and redemption, and the time-honoured use, since Classical times, of acts of atonement or commemoration. The prizes are now in their eleventh year – and we feel we have acquired another, academic, family! Every year in my speech, lest they forget, I repeat that the prizes exist to honour the Cretans in my father’s name. They are the only means I have to salute them, to give something back on his behalf, and to express my gratitude and admiration. The very first prize-winner in 2014 was a young woman who grew up listening to her grandfather’s stories – he had been involved in the kidnap operation; she entered the competition in his memory. Last year, one of the winners told me that he had entered the year before, but had not won. This time he had won, and he was so pleased. He said that the prize was a real motivation to produce excellent work. This was lovely to hear – hopefully it is truly a legacy.

Next month will be the 80th anniversary of the abduction. The exact spot at the junction with the road to Knossos is marked by a memorial, and every year wreaths are laid. A ceremony will certainly be held this year. As for me, – I remember Paddy telling how they looked up at the stars – and it is whenever I look up at night and see the stars, especially Orion’s Belt, that I think of Paddy and Billy looking up at them and finding their way by them, all those years ago.

All text copyright Gabriella Bullock. Photos copyright Estate of William Stanley Moss

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – Morale boosting news item in ‘Union Jack’

Union Jack 1

20th May 1944

The kidnap is reported in a morale boosting news item in ‘Union Jack’, the newspaper produced for Allied Forces in the Second World War.

This is the edition for Allied forces fighting in Italy.

Union Jack front page

Union Jack 2

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – More front page news

Kreipe headlines 2

19th May 1944

And finally the full story becomes major, even front page, news in Britain. Mirror, Times, Telegraph, Guardian, Express all report the kidnap – often alongside the major battles happening in Italy…

Kreipe headlines 1

Kreipe headlines 3

Kreipe headlines 4

Kreipe headlines 5

Kreipe headlines 6

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – General Kreipe arrives in Cairo after flying from Mersa Matruh

Kreipe Cairo arrival 1

16th May: On the motor launch’s arrival in Mersa Matruh the General and the rest of the kidnap group were officially welcomed by Brigadier Barker-Benfield and the General spent his first night of captivity sharing a room with the Brigadier in the Officers Mess.

Kreipe Cairo arrival 2

Kreipe headline 17 May

Kreipe Cairo arrival 3

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – Waiting for the motor launch to arrive

RN Motor launch rescue Fermor Kreipe

14th May 1944

The final hours…..they have gathered in the rocks behind Peristeres beach, just below the village of Rodakino…..different andarte bands have joined them from the surrounding villages…and they are waiting for the motor launch to arrive…….

Paddy writes:

‘…..we all lay up till nightfall on a ledge in a deep hollow of the cliffs where an icy spring trickled down the rocks……Then we crossed the short distance to the little cove we hoped to leave from. It seemed to us all, with its walls of rock on either side and the sand and the pebbles, the lapping of the water and the stars, a quiet place for our adventure to end. As we stood about, talking in whispers at first, though there was no one to be afraid of, Andartes climbed down the rocks in two and threes to join us. There were the Rodakino Kapitans Khombitis and Manoli Yanna and Andrea Kotsiphis, and there too, suddenly, with the great fair moustache that had made us christen him Beowulf, was Petraka, the kapitan of the Asi Gonia band and one of our oldest friends on the island. He had brought a contingent of Goniots to join the other Andartes in guarding our departure and also to say goodbye. The place was filling up like a drawing room: groups were lounging about in the rocks or strolling with slung guns quietly conversing’

‘There was a slight coil of mist over the sea so it was not till she was quite close that we saw the ship. We could hear the rattle of the anchor going down; then two boats were lowered…….
The moment had come….We all pulled off our boots to leave behind; this was always done; even in rags they came in useful. Soon we were saying goodbye to Petraka and the Rodakino Kapitans and Yanni Katsias and the guerrillas and lastly to Antoni Zoidakis. We all embraced like grizzly bears. I tried to persuade Antoni to come with us; he wavered a moment and then decided against it. I wish he had. A sailor said “Excuse me Sir, but we ought to get a move on.”

As we neared the ship, the figures waving along the shore had begun to grow indistinct among the shadows and, very fast, it was hard to single out the cove from the tremendous mountain mass that soared from the sea to the Milky Way. The ship grew larger, her pom-poms and Bofors A.A. guns shining in the starlight. When we drew alongside sailors in spotless white were reaching down into the bulwarks to guide the General up the rope ladder (“That’s right Sir! Easy does it!”) while we – Billy, Manoli and George and I – helped from below. A moment later we were on the deck in our bare feet and it was all over.’

Peristeres beach 1

Peristeres beach 2

Peristeres beach 3

Peristeres beach 4

Peristeres beach 5

Peristeres beach 6

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – “Wunderbar, Herr General! We’re leaving!”

May 13th 1944

Nearly there…waiting in the rocky fissure outside Alones….

Paddy writes:
“Well, Herr Major, how are the plans for our departure progressing?” By now the General had become as solicitous for the success of our departure as we were.

“Wunderbar, Herr General! We’re leaving!”

It was true, the order of release or the promise of it, had come through. The German drive through the Asi Gonia mountains had driven Dennis to earth and put his set momentarily off the air. But messages from Cairo were beamed now to all stations and when the great news came through, Dick himself, hearing of our local troubles, and making a dash clean across the Nome of Retimo, reached our cheerless grotto long after dark. The boat would put in at a beach near Rodakino at 22 hours on the night of the 14th /15th May. – “10 o’clock tomorrow night!” It was in exactly a day from now. We would only just be able to manage it.

The thing was to get the main party to the coast under cover of darkness. I sent Billy off with George and the others and Yanni Katsias and his two wild boys by a short route which would bring them by daybreak to a place where they could wait for us. The General, Manoli and I would go by a much longer and safer way, where the mountains were so steep and deserted that, with a cloud of scouts out, we could move by day without much danger. Unfortunately it was too steep and uneven for a mule so the General would have to go on foot. But the sky was clear and there would be a bright moon and starlight.

The Krioneritis mountains which we were to cross are not one of the highest ranges of Crete, but they are among the steepest and are certainly the worst going. They are bare and, except for an occasional thistle or thornbush or sea squill, as empty of vegetation as a bone yard; the place is ringed with craters and fractured into a jig-saw of deep crevasses; worst of all there is not a path or even a flat square foot in the whole of this wilderness. The region is a never-ending upside-down harrow armed with millions of limestone sickles and daggers and yataghans.
Sustained perhaps by the thought of an end to his ordeal, the General tackled this Via Crucis with scarcely a groan. Helped by Manoli and me when he stumbled and then by the guerrillas that shimmered like ghosts out of the vacancy, he moved across the landscape in a sort of trance.”

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – Dennis Ciclitira has joined them and has a working radio

May 11th 1944

Things are looking up! Dennis Ciclitira has joined them and has a working radio set up the valley in Asi Gonia. And they hear from Ianni Katsias that the closest beaches – at Rodakino – has potential as a pick up point.
They spend the day and evening resting and recovering. They are all very tired and the General is clearly suffering. Billy Moss recorded, after the General fell off the mule the day before:

“General in great pain, saying: ‘I’ve had enough. Why don’t you shoot me and get done with it’.”

Paddy writes:

Rumours of a German descent on the region had prompted Stathi to conceal us in such a cramped and precarious eyrie the night before; next morning all seemed serene: we climbed up to a commodious and beautiful ledge of rock where the General was consoled for the agonies of the ascent by the coloured blankets and the cushions spread there under the leaves by my god-brother (Stathi) and Stavro (an old drinking companion of mine) and by the marvellous banquet of roast sucking pig and kalitsounias, – crescent shaped mizithracroquettes – and the wicker demi-john of magnificent old wine which was waiting. Stathi was a great bon viveur and a paragon of kindness and generosity as well as being Kapetanios of an armed band. His eager blue eyes kindled with delight to see us demolishing his feast. He hoped, (and so did we) that we could lie up here in luxury until we slipped off over the hill to the boat. There was a rushing stream hard by and sweet smelling herbs all round us and the trees were full of nightingales. We banqueted and slept and talked and sang. The sun set through the surrounding peaks and as we lolled exulting on the soft rugs under the moon and the stars, for ever plied with fresh marvels by the two brothers, who sped to and from the village like kindly djinns, this sudden change in our affairs seemed to all of us as magical as the sudden transportation to paradise for beggars in a Persian story.’

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – The General falls from his mule

10th May 1944

After a day resting in Photeinou the party continue to travel westward. They are heading to the Kato Poros gorge outside the village of Vilandredo.

Paddy writes: ‘A mishap occurred on this long night’s march: the girth of the General’s mule broke and sent his rider tumbling down a steep precipice. We chased after him; we thought at first that one of his shoulder blades was damaged; we arranged a sling and after a while the pain seemed to go. But his right arm remained in a sling for the rest of the journey. It was an anxious moment.

Outside the little village of Vilandredo we were met by kind and enthusiastic Stathi Loukakis and his brother, yet another Stavro.

He led us all, dog-tired and woe-begone, to a built up cave that clung to the mountainside like a martin’s nest. It was only to be reached by the clambering ascent of a steep ladder of roots and rocks – up which our disabled captive could only be hoisted by many hands and slow stages.’

Michael Powell was led to the cave in !951, and we finally tracked it down in 2015.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – Our sun is rising

Chris White (C) with Charidimos Alevizakis (L) the nephew of Ianni Tsangarakis, Paddy’s greatest friend and guide. Charidimos had been a messenger for Paddy – and told us most emphatically that he and Paddy ‘were brothers.’

9th May 1944

After another day resting in Patsos the party head westward – reinforced by George Harokopos and George Pattakos, who supplies a mule for the General to ride on.

Paddy writes:

‘Our way westward over the plateau of Yious was our familiar east to west route over the narrowest part of western Crete. “Our sun is rising”, George had said as we set off at moonrise. It was a favourite saying in these nocturnal journeys. “Off we go,” Manoli said, “Anthropoi tou Skotous.” This phrase “men of Darkness!” was a cliché that often cropped up in German propaganda when referring to people like us, and we had eagerly adopted it. We were off, I hoped, on the last lap of our journey.’

‘Among the rocks and Arbutus clumps there was an ice-cold spring which was said to bestow the gift of immortality. We all lay on our faces and lapped up as much as we could hold. I told the General about the property of the water. He leant down from the saddle of his mule and asked urgently for a second mug.’
There destination for the night is the village of Fotinou – but they have to cross the main road from Rethymno to Spili without being spotted.

‘Men with guns whistled from the rocks and when we answered ran down to meet us and shepherd the party across the perilous highway. Others joined us out of the moonlight as we climbed into the conical hills where Fotinou is perched. Suddenly there was an alarm of a German patrol approaching directly ahead. Our party, by now quite large, fanned out along a ridge and lay waiting.’

‘Luckily it was only another contingent of our growing escort. There was relief and laughter. By the time we got to the grove of Scholari outside Fotinou, we were very numerous indeed. Most of the troop was composed of old Uncle Stavro Peros and his eighteen sons and their descendents with several members of the Tzangarakis and Alevizakis families as well. Andoni, the youngest of the Peros brothers had just contracted a dynastic match with the daughter of a family with whom the Peros tribe had been locked in discord for generations; so an atmosphere of concord and rejoicing reigned in the hills.’

In 1951 the film director Michael Powell, as part of his research for “Ill Met By Moonlight’, had visited the village, and photographed the Peros family.

In our early research trips we were able to meet Despina Peros, who had married Andoni Peros – the dynastic match – and whose olive grove they had stayed in. Despina was very proud of her association with the kidnap and that she had fed the group.

And on our first research trip in 2010 we met Charidimos Alevizakis, the nephew of Ianni Tsangarakis, Paddy’s greatest friend and guide. Charidimos had been a messenger for Paddy – and told us most emphatically that he and Paddy ‘were brothers.’

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – We might have been in a drawing room

8th May 1944

Tha main party stay resting outside Patsos. Billy writes about having a bathe in the tumbling stream nearby.
In the evening Paddy and Giorgos arrive from Genna and the group are reunited again.

Paddy writes: ‘The party, when I found them, were star-scattered about a tumble-down stone hut shaded by a clump of tall plane trees and a beetling rock with a waterfall and a deep pool. George Harocopos and his old father and his pretty little sister were looking after them in this Daphnis and Chloe décor.’

‘”Good morning, General. How are you?”
“Ah, Good morning, Major. We missed you.”
We might have been in a drawing room.’

The party are joined by another villager from Patsos – Giorgos Pattakos – who we were privileged to meet several times on our early research trips

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – ‘All was going according to plan’

7th May 1944

Messages are beginning to bear fruit….and Paddy realises they will have to travel further westward. They still don’t have a plan on how to depart but they are now getting better links with Cairo via the radio set at Dryade and their brave messenger, George Psychoundakis. Paddy and George stay on in Genna a further night.

In the evening Manoli, Billy, the General and the main party travel further westward to the village of Patsos, where they stay in a sheepfold in a gorge by a tumbling stream.

Paddy writes: ‘On the night of the 7th, the party with the General moved by an easy night march to Patsos, which was only two or three hours away from me. They were being fed and guarded by George Harocopos and his family, (George, a thoughtful and well read boy, later to become a gifted journalist, was the son of a very poor, but very brave and kind family, all of whom had been great benefactors to the wandering British). All was going according to plan.’

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – “But when we saw the branding mark, We only stole the ram, Sir”

6th May 1944

Paddy and Giorgos remain based in Genna – messengers coming and going as they desperately try to arrange a safe beach to be picked up from. Giorgos Psychoundakis returns with Dick Barnes – known as Pavlos.

Paddy writes: ‘This reunion with Dick – like many occasions in occupied Crete when one wasn’t actually dodging the enemy – became the excuse for a mild blind. ‘Mr Pavlo and I set off to Yeni,’ writes George Psychoundakis in ‘The Cretan Runner’, “where we found Mr Mihali (me) and Uncle Yanni Katsias. We sat there till the evening and the sun set. Yanni took us to the east side of the village where they brought us some food and first rate wine and our Keph (well-being) was great. The four of us were soon singing. Mr Mihali sang a sheep-stealing couplet to the tune of Pentezali, which went:

Ah, Godbrother, the night was dark
For lamb and goat and dam, Sir,
But when we saw the branding mark,
We only stole the ram, Sir.

The ram – the head of the flock – meant the General.’

Billy, Manoli, the General and the rest of the kidnap team remain in the sheepfold above Gerakari.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – ‘This is very satisfactory news’

5th May 1944

Paddy and Giorgos remain in Genna, coordinating messengers. They are joined by Giorgos Harokopos and Giorgos Psychoundakis, who then heads back off to the wireless set run by Dick Barnes at Dryade with a message.

The main party in the evening leave Gomara and walk up the Amari valley via the village of Gourgouthi to their next hideout – a sheepfold above the village of Gerakari.

And in London Orme Sargent, the senior Foreign Office officer at Under Secretary level working to SOE, sends a memo to Harry Sporborg, deputy to Major-General Colin Gubbins, Head of SOE, expressing great approval of the coup. ’I have just heard of the success of an Allied Mission in Crete in capturing a high German officer. This is very satisfactory news and I hope it will be possible to get the German out to Cairo as I believe is intended.’

[1] National Archives HS 5/416

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – ‘… if my companions are feeling half as uncomfortable as I do they must be feeling terrible’

4th May 1944

The main party are still hiding in the valley of Gomara. Billy Moss records in ‘Ill Met by Moonlight’:
“It rained all night long , and, as was inevitable, we are soaked to the skin. Around me I see a picture of human misery, and I know that if my companions are feeling half as uncomfortable as I do they must be feeling terrible.”
Spirits are lifted in the afternoon when messengers arrive from Sandy Rendel and Dick Barnes.

Meanwhile in Fourfouras Paddy and Giorgos leave the comforts of Giorgos’ family home and travel 14kms further up the valley to Pantanassa…..searching for the whereabouts of a working radio set.

Paddy writes:

“Among the cypresses of Pantanasa George and I ran into a hitch. The Hieronymakis family, we knew, were in touch with at least one of our wireless stations. By ill luck it was about the only village in the region where neither of us had ever been. The Hieronymakis knew all about us, we knew all about them, but we had never met and there was no one to vouch for us. The old men were adamant: ‘You say you are Mihali, Mihali who? And who are Siphi (Ralph Stockbridge) and Pavlo (Dick Barnes)? Never heard of them. Tk. Tk. Tk! Englishmen? but, boys, all the English left Crete three years ago …?’ The white whiskered faces turned to each other for corroboration, beetling brows were raised in puzzlement, blank glances exchanged. They went on calmly fingering their amber beads, politely offering coffee. It was no good raging up and down, gesticulating under the onions and paprika pods dangling from the beams: every attempt to break through was met by identical backward tilts of head with closed eyelids and the placidly dismissive tongue click of the Greek negative. They wouldn’t give an inch until they knew (as they say) what tobacco we smoked. We could, after all, be agents provocateurs.”

“This impressive but exasperating wall of security was only broken at last, after two precious hours of deadlock, by the entry of Uncle Stavro Zourbakis from Karines – a friend of us all. Everything dissolved at once. In greetings, recognition, laughter, Raki, a crackle of thorns and sizzling in the hearth and the immediate summoning and despatch of runners to the two sets in the North West.”

Paddy and George move on for the evening back down the valley to the village of Genna, where they were to stay for several days:

“The goat-fold of Zourbovasili lay in rolling biblical hills. There was a round threshing floor nearby, where George and I could sleep on brushwood with a great circular sweep of vision. This place was to become, during the next three days, the centre of all going and coming of messengers as plans changed and options elapsed. But now, after the scrum of the last few days it seemed preternaturally quiet in the brilliant moonlight. Ida towered east of us now, Kedros due south: The White Mountains, which had come nearer to us during the day, loomed shining in the west. How empty and still after our huddled mountain life, was this empty silver plateau! A perfect place to watch the moon moving across the sky and chain smoke through the night pondering on the fix we were in and how to get out of it. There was not a sound except a little owl in a wood close by and an occasional clank from Vassilis’ flock.”

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – The Telegraph reports ‘martial law’ being declared on Crete

3rd May 1944

Another day spent in their hideout in the valley of Gomara. They are still stuck and have no contact with Cairo, and no idea of when, where or how they will get off the island.

But they have a plan….in the evening the party decide to separate.

Billy, Manoli Paterakis, the General and the main kidnap group will stay in Gomara.

Paddy and Giorgos Tyrakis will travel in the evening up the Amari to Fourfouras, Giorgos’ home village, in search of a working radio station.

They still remain in the news in the UK – the Telegraph reports ‘martial law’ being declared on Crete.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – Front page news

2nd May 1944

If only they knew!

Paddy, Billy, the rest of the kidnap team and the General spend another miserable day in the ditch, fearing capture…but it is getting quieter for them, as the German patrols are now searching further up the mountain.

Meanwhile in the UK ….they are front page news – in the Express, Telegraph, Guardian and Times!

In the evening they decide to move a kilometre or so westward – to the valley of Gomara.

Giorgos Pharangoulitakis describes it his memoir ‘Eagles of Mt Ida’: ‘We decided to shift towards the valley of Gomara, just west of Ayia Paraskevi, a part where they had searched every inch, and where we could take up a better defence posture. It was a steep rocky place with a hole like a sort of grotto under a cliff where we could hide for the night.’

In the end they spend the night and the following day under the branches of ‘a very large pear tree …it was like an eagles nest’.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – ‘the General realises that our capture would prove fatal for him’

1st May 1944

A long and dangerous day spent hiding in the ditch outside Agia Paraskevi. Probably the low point for all in the journey, and where they are most vulnerable to discovery by the German cordon – Moss records Kreipe’s realisation of his personal need for the success of the operation in order to ensure his own survival:

“I think the General realises that our capture would prove fatal for him.”

They can hear German patrols, sometimes as close as 50 metres, searching for them.

Paddy records that food is brought to them from Agia Paraskevi:

‘Antoni unpacked bread, cheese, onions, a dish of fried potatoes, some lamb and a napkin full of ‘kalitsounia!’ – crescent shaped fritters full of soft white cheese and chopped mint. Then a big bottle of mulberry raki came out and a handful of little tumblers. ‘This will warm you up,’ he said filling them: ‘White flannel vests all round.’ He splashed politely over to our guest with the first one, saying ‘stratege mou” (my General) then to the rest of us. They went down our throats like wonderful liquid flame. ‘And here,’ he said pulling out a gallon of dark amber wine, ‘red overcoats for all.’

What they don’t know is that in Cairo SOE have made a public announcement that Kreipe has been kidnapped and has already been taken off the island by submarine and is on his way to Cairo.

However they are still stuck, with no way of contacting Cairo and have no idea – as yet – of how they will get off the island.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – The descent of Mt Ida

30th April 1944

The descent of Mt Ida has been exceptionally arduous in the dark so the day is spent recovering in Vorini Trypa, the large cave above Nithavris on the side of Mt. Ida.

That evening, in the rain and mist, they leave the cave and head further down the mountain into the bottom the Amari valley.

It is a difficult and very dangerous journey as the Germans are hunting for the General and are in all the villages immediately around them.

They first head west to the village of Kouroutes and then south until they stop and hide in a stream bed outside Agia Paraskevi.

Paddy records: Rain came swishing down: ‘Marvelous for the olives’, Manoli murmured. We waded through a stream and began to climb again. The rain turned to sleet. At last the village of Aya Paraskevi was only half an hour away. The Germans would have sentries out, perhaps patrols; better to stop there. We piled into a ditch mercifully overgrown with cistus, thyme and myrtle; protection from view, but not from the rain.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – The ascent of Mount Ida in wind and snow

In the snow on top of Mount Ida

29th April 1944

The weather is deteriorating and the kidnap team need to walk over the side of Mt Ida and down into the Amari valley. It will be a long and arduous day and night.

At midday the party leave Petradolakkia and skirt the side of the Nidha plateau. They are heading for the mitato belonging to Roti, where they will rendezvous with Kapetan Petrakogiorgos and his andartes who will escort them over the side of the mountain. They climb up to the plateau of Akolyta and in rain, wind and snow they head over until they can see signal fires in the Amari telling them it is safe to descend. They shelter in the remains of a mitato before descending. After a long and arduous descent they are led to Vorini Trypa – North Hole – a large cave with tunnels and caverns heading off from the back of it. This cave has been used by the Resistance on several occasions before this visit, and is used by Dunbabin and George Psychoundakis in August 1944.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – PLF and George Tyrakis rendezvous with the team

27th April 1944.

PLF and George Tyrakis rendezvous with the General and the rest of the kidnap team north of Anogia. In the evening they begin the long trek up the slopes of Mt Ida to the Xylouris sheepfolds at Petrodolakkia. On the way they rest briefly in one of the many mitatos (cheese huts) in the area.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – Third time lucky … the kidnap is on!

The first in the series of reposts of Chris White’s ‘diary’ of the events of the capture and kidnap of General Kreipe in Crete 80 years ago today. I first posted these in 2021 to keep readers occupied during the dreadful Covid lockdowns.

This repeat series is posted to honour the memory of all those involved from the brave Cretan Andartes, Patrick Leigh Fermor, other members of SOE and SBS, and the many Cretan civilians who aided the kidnap team, as well as all those who suffered under Nazi German occupation.

Captain William ‘Billy’ Stanley Moss MC, Coldstream Guards

A special tribute to Major William Stanley Moss, known to all as ‘Billy’ who, as a Captain at the time, was the second-in command of the operation and often lived under Leigh Fermor’s shadow. Billy was an out and out soldier. He fought between October 1942 and July 1943 with Montgomery’s Eighth Army chasing Rommel across North Africa after Alamein. In the aftermath of Operation Corkscrew, his battalion was then sent to garrison Pantelleria. He returned to Cairo, where he volunteered to join Force 133 of the Special Operations Executive (SOE) on 24 September 1943 where he met Paddy and Countess Zofia (Sophie) Tarnowska who was to become his wife. He continued to fight in Crete, then Greece, and in 1945 was parachuted into Thailand still serving with SOE. Billy was the author of Ill Met by Moonlight which is his detailed account of the kidnap, and War of Shadows as well as many other titles.

Moss was recommended for and received the Immediate Award of the Military Cross following the Kreipe abduction.

23 May 1944 Recommendation for MC.

This officer showed exceptional gallantry in taking part, with Major Leigh Fermor, in the organization and execution of the kidnapping of Major-General Kreipe at Arkhanes, Crete on 26 April 1944. It was due to Captain Moss’s swiftness in attacking the General’s car that the operation was made possible.

In the early stages of the kidnapping, Capt. Moss impersonated the chauffeur of the General’s car and for an hour and a half drove “the General” through Heraklion and passed 22 controlled road blocks before the car was finally abandoned. Subsequently Capt. Moss assisted in moving the General during a period of 17 days through enemy held territory.

For outstanding courage and audacity Capt. Moss is recommended for the Immediate Award of the MC.

Special thanks once more to Chris White for his exceptional work for this series and of course his co-authorship of Abducting a General.

If you want to read more about the events of April and May 1944 please click on the Tags that accompany each post at its end. You will find that there are literally hundreds of other items of news, analysis and memories.

Over to Chris …

26th April 1944.

Third time lucky…..the Kreipe kidnap team leave the Zographistos farmhouse outside Skalani and walk to the kidnap spot and wait for the General to drive past. At 9 pm they stop the car and the kidnap begins. The General is handcuffed and hidden on the back seat of the car. They drive past the Villa Ariadne and through Heraklion, entering by the Agios Giorgos gate and leaving by the Chaniaporta. They drive on into the mountains, stopping at Yeni Gave, where Billy Moss, Manoli Paterakis, Stratis Saviolakis and the General leave the car, heading up a track for a hideout in a ravine north of Anogia. PLF and Georgos Tyrakis drive for a further 2 kms and dump the car at Campo Doxaro, at the start of a track leading to the Cheliana ravine and the sea. They take with them the pennants from the car and head to the village of Anogia.

Escape from Fortress Crete

Patrick Leigh Fermor and William Stanley Moss (top row, second and third from left) with ­other members of the group that abducted the German general Heinrich Kreipe, Crete, April 1944. Estate of William Stanley Moss/Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor Archive/National Library of Scotland

Patrick Leigh Fermor and William Stanley Moss (top row, second and third from left) with ­other members of the group that abducted the German general Heinrich Kreipe, Crete, April 1944. Estate of William Stanley Moss/Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor Archive/National Library of Scotland

In one of the most audacious feats of World War II, two British undercover agents and a group of Greek partisans in Nazi-occupied Crete kidnapped General Heinrich Kreipe, the commander of the German garrison’s foremost division. Over eighteen days, with a net of enemy troops tightening around them, they marched him across the island’s mountains to be transported on a motor launch to Egypt.

By Colin Thubron

First published in the New York Review, March 11 2021

“Of all the stories that have come out of the War,” a radio announcer declared triumphantly, “this is the one which schoolboys everywhere will best remember.” The exploit was celebrated in 1950 by its deputy leader William Stanley Moss in his book Ill Met by Moonlight, which became a popular movie produced and directed by Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger.

The leader of the operation, Patrick Leigh Fermor (played onscreen by Dirk Bogarde), was to become a legendary figure in postwar Britain and Greece, as well as the most revered travel writer of his generation. But his full account of the action, Abducting a General: The Kreipe Operation in Crete, wasn’t published until several years after he died. Beside its sheer drama and the frequent fineness of Leigh Fermor’s writing, the story resonates with half-answered questions. Was the exploit worth it? What, if any, was its strategic effect? Above all, were the atrocities visited afterward on Cretan villages by the Germans an act of vengeance for the abduction?

Recent years have seen a surge of interest in Leigh Fermor’s life and work. Since his death in 2011, a fine, full-scale biography by Artemis Cooper has appeared; his archive at the National Library of Scotland has been mined for new material; and two volumes of his letters, Dashing for the Post and More Dashing, in which he recounts inter alia his periodic returns to Crete, were edited by Adam Sisman. On the last of these journeys, in 1982, Leigh Fermor was delighted—and perhaps relieved—at his rapturous reception from his Cretan comrades-in-arms, still inhabiting his wartime haunts: whiskery old men now, who feasted him mountainously for days.

Their memories are long and bitter. The Nazi occupation of Crete, and of all Greece, was a particularly brutal one, in which perhaps 9 percent of the nation’s population perished, and almost the entire Jewish population of the island, destined for death camps, was drowned when their transport ship was mistakenly torpedoed by a British submarine. Hundreds of villages, including many in Crete, were razed.

These memories have recently surfaced again in the rhetoric of Greek politicians. Germany, ironically, is Greece’s main creditor. In protesting German stringency in the face of their towering debt, the Greeks raised the old question of war reparations, maintained by Germany to have been settled in 1990. In 2015 the Greeks demanded a further $303 billion for damaged infrastructure, war crimes, and repayment of a Nazi-enforced loan from Greece to Germany. The present Greek prime minister has pursued this less stridently than his predecessor, but the demand remains.

This rankling bitterness would not have surprised those members of the British Special Operations Executive (SOE) who operated undercover in the Cretan mountains, and who witnessed firsthand the Greek hatred of their oppressors. Part of Leigh Fermor’s motive in producing his own account of Kreipe’s abduction was to pay tribute to the intransigent courage and resolve of the local inhabitants.

Yet the writing of the operation originated by chance. In 1966 the editor of Purnell’s History of the Second World War, an anthology of feature-length essays, commissioned Leigh Fermor to record the operation in five thousand words. But Leigh Fermor was not one for shortcuts, and he produced over 30,000 words, almost a year late. Eventually a version appeared in Purnell’s History, stripped down by a professional journalist, and shorn of most of the color, drama, and anecdote that characterized the original.

It is easy to see how this original—published as Abducting a General —exasperated the Purnell’s History editor. From the start, although it records every tactical move, it reads more like a vivid and expansive adventure story than a military report. On the night of February 5, 1944, signal fires glitter on a narrow Cretan plateau as Leigh Fermor parachutes out of a converted British bomber. It is the start of things going wrong. Clouds close in, and his fellow officer “Billy” Moss cannot drop down after him. It is two months before they rendezvous on the island’s southern shore, after Moss has arrived from Egypt by motor launch.

Leigh Fermor was twenty-nine, Moss only twenty-two, but both had seen hard war service. Moss, a captain in the Coldstream Guards, had fought in North Africa, but had no previous experience of guerrilla warfare. Leigh Fermor, on the other hand, had already been in Crete fifteen months, disguised as a shepherd, gathering intelligence and organizing resistance. He spoke fluent Greek and had struck up warm friendships among the andartes, the region’s guerrillas.

The island where they landed was the formidable German Festung Kreta, Fortress Crete, garrisoned by some 50,000 soldiers, but menaced by a hinterland of lawless mountain villages. The British target at first had been the brutal General Friedrich-Wilhelm Müller (who would be executed for war crimes in 1947). But he had recently been replaced by General Kreipe, a veteran of the eastern front, who for propaganda purposes was considered an equally promising prize.

Such a kidnapping would undermine the morale of the German forces, Leigh Fermor wrote; it would inspirit the resistance (which had suffered recent reverses) and prove a setback to the Communist propagandists who were seeking to divide the Greek island as they had the mainland. He proposed to his SOE superiors in Cairo that the action should be “an Anglo-Cretan affair”:

It could be done, I urged, with stealth and timing in such a way that both bloodshed, and thus reprisals, would be avoided. (I had only a vague idea how.) To my amazement, the idea was accepted.

In a curious lapse of German security, Kreipe was driven unescorted each evening five miles from his divisional headquarters to his fortified residence. At a steep junction in the road Leigh Fermor, Moss, and a selected band of andartes lay in wait after dark until a flashed warning from an accomplice signaled the car’s departure. As the Opel’s headlights approached, the two SOE officers, wearing the stolen uniforms of German corporals, flagged it down with a traffic policeman’s baton.

On one side Leigh Fermor saluted and asked in German for identity papers, then wrenched open the door and heaved the general out at gunpoint. On the other, Moss, seeing the chauffeur reach for his revolver, knocked him out and took his place at the wheel. Meanwhile the Cretan guerrillas manacled the general, bundled him into the back of the Opel, and dragged the driver to a ditch. Leigh Fermor put on the general’s hat, three andartes held the general at knifepoint on the seat behind, and Moss drove off in the direction that the enemy would least expect: toward the German stronghold of Heraklion.

Along the road, and within the city’s Venetian walls, the general’s car, with its signature mudguard pennants, cruised past raised barriers and saluting sentries. In the blacked-out streets the car’s interior was almost invisible. Moss drove through twenty-two checkpoints. Occasionally Leigh Fermor, his face shadowed under the general’s hat, returned the salutes. Then the car exited the Canea Gate and they went into the night.

In the eighteen days that followed, the party often split and reformed. The Opel was abandoned near a bay deep enough to give the impression that a British submarine had spirited the general away. Anxious that no reprisals should be taken against the Cretans, Leigh Fermor pinned a prepared letter to the front seat:

Gentlemen,

Your Divisional Commander, General Kreipe, was captured a short time ago by a BRITISH Raiding Force under our command. By the time you read this both he and we will be on our way to Cairo.

We would like to point out most emphatically that this operation has been carried out without the help of CRETANS or CRETAN partisans and the only guides used were serving soldiers of HIS HELLENIC MAJESTY’S FORCES in the Middle East, who came with us.

Your General is an honourable prisoner of war and will be treated with all the consideration owing to his rank. Any reprisals against the local population will thus be wholly unwarranted and unjust.

Beneath their signatures they appended a postscript: “We are very sorry to have to leave this beautiful motor car behind.” Other signs of British involvement—Players’ cigarette stubs, a commando beret, an Agatha Christie novel, a Cadbury’s chocolate wrapper—were scattered in the car or nearby.

At daybreak the general was hidden in a cave near the rebellious village of Anoyeia. Leigh Fermor was still in German uniform when he entered the village with one of the andartes. “For the first time,” he wrote,

I realised how an isolated German soldier in a Cretan mountain village was treated. All talk and laughter died at the washing troughs, women turned their backs and thumped their laundry with noisy vehemence; cloaked shepherds, in answer to greeting, gazed past us in silence; then stood and watched us out of sight. An old crone spat on the ground…. In a moment we could hear women’s voices wailing into the hills: “The black cattle have strayed into the wheat!” and “Our in-laws have come!”—island-wide warnings of enemy arrival.

Yet his party’s progress soon came to resemble a royal procession. Guerrilla bands and villagers who recognized what had happened greeted them with jubilation and supplied food, guides, and escorts. But the going was very hard. Thousands of German troops were fanning across the mountains in search of them. Reconnaissance planes showered the country with threatening leaflets. Still, the group vanished from German sight among the goat tracks and canyons east of Mount Ida, whose eight-thousand-foot bulk straddles a quarter of the island. They crossed it in deep snow.

The general was a heftily built, rather dull man who trudged with them in reconciled gloom. He was not a brute, like Müller, but the thirteenth child of a Lutheran pastor whose chief worry, at first, was the loss of his Knights’ Cross medal in the scuffle. Sometimes a mule was found for him, but he fell twice, heavily. “I wish I’d never come to this accursed island,” he said. “It was supposed to be a nice change after the Russian front.”

On the slopes of Ida one dawn, where the two SOE officers and the general had been sleeping in a cave under the same flea-ridden blanket, Leigh Fermor placed the incident that he celebrated more than thirty years later in his A Time of Gifts. Gazing at the mountain crest across the valley, the general murmured to himself the start of a Horatian ode in Latin. It is one that Leigh Fermor knew (his memory was prodigious), and he completed the ode through its last five stanzas:

The general’s blue eyes had swivelled away from the mountain-top to mine—and when I’d finished, after a long silence, he said: “Ach so, Herr Major!” It was very strange. As though, for a long moment, the war had ceased to exist. We had both drunk at the same fountains long before; and things were different between us for the rest of our time together.

By now German troops were spreading across the long southern coast, from which the general would most likely be shipped to Egypt on a motor launch or submarine summoned by radio. But the radios and their clandestine operators were forced to relocate continually by German maneuvers, a crucial wireless-charging engine broke down, and messages (carried by runners) quickly became redundant as enemy troops took over remote beaches.

Yet Leigh Fermor’s party, sometimes guided by andartes’ beacons, slipped through the tightening cordon, and arrived at the defiant haven of the Amari Valley villages. It was another eight days, far to the west, before they found an undefended beach, made contact with a radio operator and with SOE headquarters in Cairo, and were promised a boat for the following night. In a last, ludicrous hitch, as Leigh Fermor and Moss attempted to flash the agreed Morse code signal for the rendezvous into the dark, they could not remember the code for “B.” But another of the group did; the motor launch returned, and they embarked for Egypt in euphoria, after shedding their boots and weapons for those comrades left behind.

It was soon after his capture, on the road beyond Heraklion, that General Kreipe, a tried professional soldier, asked, “Tell me, Major, what is the object of this hussar-stunt?”

In Abducting a General Leigh Fermor stresses morale: the blow to German confidence and the boost to Cretan resistance and pride. Immersed as he was in the emotional politics of the island, he felt the endeavor to be worth the risk. But others questioned it. Strategically it was irrelevant, and under his eventual interrogation the general yielded nothing of interest. “Kreipe is rather unimportant,” concluded the British War Office. “Rather weak character and ignorant.” The historian M.R.D. Foot, to Leigh Fermor’s irritation, called the abduction merely a “tremendous jape,” and even before the project was sanctioned, a senior SOE executive in Cairo, when asked if it should proceed, objected. The executive later wrote:

I made myself exceedingly unpopular by recommending as strongly as I could that we should not. I thought that if it succeeded, the only contribution to the war effort would be a fillip to Cretan morale, but that the price would certainly be heavy in Cretan lives. The sacrifice might possibly have been worthwhile in the black winter of 1941 when things were going badly. The result of carrying it out in 1944, when everyone knew that victory was merely a matter of months would, I thought, hardly justify the cost.

The cost may have been high. Some three and a half months after the general’s kidnapping, with the brutal Müller again the island’s commander, the Germans razed to the ground the recalcitrant village of Anoyeia. Müller’s order of the day was unequivocal. For Anoyeia’s longtime harboring of guerrillas and of British intelligence, for its murder of two separate German contingents, and for its complicity in Kreipe’s abduction:

We order its COMPLETE DESTRUCTION and the execution of every male person of Anogia who would happen to be within the village and around it within a distance of one kilometre.

Nine days later the Amari villages suffered the same fate, with 164 executed. The Greek newspaper Paratiritis, an organ of German propaganda, cited their support for the Kreipe abduction as the reason.

Patrick Leigh Fermor and Yanni Tsangarakis, Hordaki, Crete
Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor Archive/National Library of Scotland

Patrick Leigh Fermor (right) and Yanni Tsangarakis, Hordaki, Crete, May 1943

Leigh Fermor, by then convalescing in a Cairo hospital, was shattered by the news. Yet in retrospect he realized that some four months—an unprecedentedly long time—had elapsed before the German reprisals, which were usually instantaneous. There are historians who agree that citing Kreipe’s abduction was little more than an excuse, and that the real, unpublishable reason was that within two months the German forces were to start their mass withdrawal west across the island, exposing them to hostile regions like Amari that flanked their line of retreat. Colonel Dunbabin, Leigh Fermor’s overall commander, in his final report on SOE missions in Crete, shared this assessment, adding that Müller’s purpose was “to commit the German soldiers to terrorist acts so that they should know that there would be no mercy for them if they surrendered or deserted.”

When Leigh Fermor returned to the island soon after, his Cretan friends comforted him that the German revenge would have happened anyway: “These were consoling words; never a syllable of blame was uttered. I listened to them eagerly then, and set them down eagerly now.”

These thoughts and memories, of course, were written in retrospect. By the time of their composition in 1966 and 1967 Leigh Fermor had already completed a novella, a brief study of monastic life, and three travel books, including two fine descriptions of Greece, Mani and Roumeli. His Abducting a General, besides its value as a war document, slips readily into narrative reminiscent of a dramatic travel book, peppered with anecdote and irresistible asides. This is part of its allure. Military data merge seamlessly with the evocation of people and landscapes. A threatening storm is evoked in images of aerial pandemonium above a landscape of rotting cliffs and lightning-struck gorges. (One sentence of Proustian complexity runs to 138 words.) A cave in which the abduction party shelters from the exposing daylight is described with an eye for more than its military use:

It was a measureless natural cavern that warrened and forked deep into the rocks, and then dropped, storey after storey, to lightless and nearly airless stalactitic dungeons littered with the horned skeletons of beasts which had fallen there and starved to death in past centuries: a dismal den, floored with millennia of goats’ pellets, dank as a tomb.

The second, shorter section of the book is devoted to Leigh Fermor’s contemporary War Reports. Most valuable is his account of another evacuation. In September 1943 Italy surrendered to the Allies, and General Angelo Carta, commander of the 32,000-strong Italian Siena division occupying eastern Crete, was being hunted by the Germans. Through Carta’s counterespionage officer Franco Tavana, who handed over detailed Italian defense plans, Leigh Fermor organized the general’s escape, from a chaotic beachhead, to Egypt.

Even the reports are vivid with incident. On a clandestine visit to Tavana, Leigh Fermor hid under a bed from intruding Germans, “clutching my revolver, and swallowing pounds of fluff and cobwebs.” Crouched in the cellar of an Orthodox abbot, while sheltering from an enemy patrol—“It was a very near thing”—he glimpsed the Germans’ boots two feet above him through the floorboards. Elsewhere he describes how—heavily disguised—he taught a trio of drunken Wehrmacht sergeants to dance the Greek pentozali. It comes as a shock to realize that any Allied operative arrested on the island would be brutally tortured, then shot.

Leigh Fermor’s courage, generosity, and high spirits famously endeared him to the Cretans. He sang, danced, and drank with them. Naturally generous and uncritical, he describes almost every mountaineer as a model of hardiness and bravery: “Originality and inventiveness in conversation and an explosive vitality…. There was something both patrician and bohemian in their attitude to life.” He might have been describing himself. “We could not have lasted a day without the islanders’ passionate support.”

Among the Cretans Leigh Fermor most admired was a slight, high-spirited youth named George Psychoundakis (affectionately code-named the “Changebug”), whom the SOE used as a runner carrying messages over the mountains. This impoverished shepherd, whom Leigh Fermor’s confederate Xan Fielding called “the most naturally wise and instinctively knowledgeable Cretan I ever met,” could cover the harsh terrain at lightning speed, although he dressed in tatters and his disintegrating boots were secured with wire. After the Occupation ended he was mistakenly interned as a deserter and eventually went to work as a charcoal-burner to support his destitute family. It was at these times—in prisons, and in a cave above his work-site—that he labored on the book that became The Cretan Runner. It was translated by Leigh Fermor, who had discovered its author’s whereabouts after the war.

Patrick Leigh Fermor (right) and Yanni Tsangarakis, Hordaki, Crete, May 1943. Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor Archive/National Library of Scotland

Patrick Leigh Fermor (right) and Yanni Tsangarakis, Hordaki, Crete, May 1943. Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor Archive/National Library of Scotland

Uniquely, it is a narrative written from the lowliest rank of the Greek resistance, by a man who was barely educated, and records four years as a dispatch carrier through the precipitous harshness of western Crete. Sometimes he rendezvoused with British arms drops or guided escaping Allied soldiers to the sea, and he evaded capture by swiftness, resourcefulness, and a profound knowledge of the terrain. He wrote:

My tactics on the march were to know few people, in order that few should know me, even if they were “ours” and good patriots. I kept my mouth shut with everybody, even to the point of idiocy, and these two things kept me safe to the end.

His book is an unaffected day-by-day drama, direct and demotic at best, only occasionally swelling into literary grandiloquence when he feels the subject (patriotism, the dead) requires it. Years later this self-taught prodigy translated the Iliad and the Odyssey into his vernacular Cretan, using the meter of the seventeenth-century romance Erotokritos, and was richly rewarded by the Athens Academy.

Leigh Fermor’s translation of this difficult work arose from his love of Cretan culture as well as respect for Psychoundakis. But his personal immersion in the island came at cost. One of his War Reports expands wretchedly on his accidental shooting of a partisan and great friend, Yanni Tsangarakis. Its recounting clouded his face even in old age. And misgivings that his Kreipe operation—brilliant and brave as it was—brought retribution on the island he loved may never have quite left him.

General Kreipe arrives in the UK

PW capture report on Kreipe

This is the last post in the series created by the excellent Chris White. He first published this on Facebook in 2020. During the first months of the pandemic, I was copying and pasting and adding his pictures to recreate here on the Paddy blog. I know that many of you have enjoyed this and your comments are appreciated. There will be a couple of follow on posts to tidy up this series, but once more, a huge round of thanks to Chris. I look forward to seeing Chris at the 10th anniversary dinner in June and passing on my personal appreciation.

29th May 1944. General Kreipe arrives in the UK after a brief period of time in Cairo being interrogated. Again, it is front page news.

Kreipe in UK 1

Morale boosting news item in ‘Union Jack’

Union Jack 1

20th May 1944

The kidnap is reported in a morale boosting news item in ‘Union Jack’, the newspaper produced for Allied Forces in the Second World War.

This is the edition for Allied forces fighting in Italy.

Union Jack front page

Union Jack 2

Front page news

Kreipe headlines 2

19th May 1944

And finally the full story becomes major, even front page, news in Britain. Mirror, Times, Telegraph, Guardian, Express all report the kidnap – often alongside the major battles happening in Italy…

Kreipe headlines 1

Kreipe headlines 3

Kreipe headlines 4

Kreipe headlines 5

Kreipe headlines 6

General Kreipe arrives in Cairo after flying from Mersa Matruh

Kreipe Cairo arrival 1

16th May: On the motor launch’s arrival in Mersa Matruh the General and the rest of the kidnap group were officially welcomed by Brigadier Barker-Benfield and the General spent his first night of captivity sharing a room with the Brigadier in the Officers Mess.

Kreipe Cairo arrival 2

Kreipe headline 17 May

Kreipe Cairo arrival 3

Waiting for the motor launch to arrive

RN Motor launch rescue Fermor Kreipe

14th May 1944

The final hours…..they have gathered in the rocks behind Peristeres beach, just below the village of Rodakino…..different andarte bands have joined them from the surrounding villages…and they are waiting for the motor launch to arrive…….

Paddy writes:

‘…..we all lay up till nightfall on a ledge in a deep hollow of the cliffs where an icy spring trickled down the rocks……Then we crossed the short distance to the little cove we hoped to leave from. It seemed to us all, with its walls of rock on either side and the sand and the pebbles, the lapping of the water and the stars, a quiet place for our adventure to end. As we stood about, talking in whispers at first, though there was no one to be afraid of, Andartes climbed down the rocks in two and threes to join us. There were the Rodakino Kapitans Khombitis and Manoli Yanna and Andrea Kotsiphis, and there too, suddenly, with the great fair moustache that had made us christen him Beowulf, was Petraka, the kapitan of the Asi Gonia band and one of our oldest friends on the island. He had brought a contingent of Goniots to join the other Andartes in guarding our departure and also to say goodbye. The place was filling up like a drawing room: groups were lounging about in the rocks or strolling with slung guns quietly conversing’

‘There was a slight coil of mist over the sea so it was not till she was quite close that we saw the ship. We could hear the rattle of the anchor going down; then two boats were lowered…….
The moment had come….We all pulled off our boots to leave behind; this was always done; even in rags they came in useful. Soon we were saying goodbye to Petraka and the Rodakino Kapitans and Yanni Katsias and the guerrillas and lastly to Antoni Zoidakis. We all embraced like grizzly bears. I tried to persuade Antoni to come with us; he wavered a moment and then decided against it. I wish he had. A sailor said “Excuse me Sir, but we ought to get a move on.”

As we neared the ship, the figures waving along the shore had begun to grow indistinct among the shadows and, very fast, it was hard to single out the cove from the tremendous mountain mass that soared from the sea to the Milky Way. The ship grew larger, her pom-poms and Bofors A.A. guns shining in the starlight. When we drew alongside sailors in spotless white were reaching down into the bulwarks to guide the General up the rope ladder (“That’s right Sir! Easy does it!”) while we – Billy, Manoli and George and I – helped from below. A moment later we were on the deck in our bare feet and it was all over.’

Peristeres beach 1

Peristeres beach 2

Peristeres beach 3

Peristeres beach 4

Peristeres beach 5

Peristeres beach 6

“Wunderbar, Herr General! We’re leaving!”

May 13th 1944

Nearly there…waiting in the rocky fissure outside Alones….

Paddy writes:
“Well, Herr Major, how are the plans for our departure progressing?” By now the General had become as solicitous for the success of our departure as we were.

“Wunderbar, Herr General! We’re leaving!”

It was true, the order of release or the promise of it, had come through. The German drive through the Asi Gonia mountains had driven Dennis to earth and put his set momentarily off the air. But messages from Cairo were beamed now to all stations and when the great news came through, Dick himself, hearing of our local troubles, and making a dash clean across the Nome of Retimo, reached our cheerless grotto long after dark. The boat would put in at a beach near Rodakino at 22 hours on the night of the 14th /15th May. – “10 o’clock tomorrow night!” It was in exactly a day from now. We would only just be able to manage it.

The thing was to get the main party to the coast under cover of darkness. I sent Billy off with George and the others and Yanni Katsias and his two wild boys by a short route which would bring them by daybreak to a place where they could wait for us. The General, Manoli and I would go by a much longer and safer way, where the mountains were so steep and deserted that, with a cloud of scouts out, we could move by day without much danger. Unfortunately it was too steep and uneven for a mule so the General would have to go on foot. But the sky was clear and there would be a bright moon and starlight.

The Krioneritis mountains which we were to cross are not one of the highest ranges of Crete, but they are among the steepest and are certainly the worst going. They are bare and, except for an occasional thistle or thornbush or sea squill, as empty of vegetation as a bone yard; the place is ringed with craters and fractured into a jig-saw of deep crevasses; worst of all there is not a path or even a flat square foot in the whole of this wilderness. The region is a never-ending upside-down harrow armed with millions of limestone sickles and daggers and yataghans.
Sustained perhaps by the thought of an end to his ordeal, the General tackled this Via Crucis with scarcely a groan. Helped by Manoli and me when he stumbled and then by the guerrillas that shimmered like ghosts out of the vacancy, he moved across the landscape in a sort of trance.”

Dennis Ciclitira has joined them and has a working radio

May 11th 1944

Things are looking up! Dennis Ciclitira has joined them and has a working radio set up the valley in Asi Gonia. And they hear from Ianni Katsias that the closest beaches – at Rodakino – has potential as a pick up point.
They spend the day and evening resting and recovering. They are all very tired and the General is clearly suffering. Billy Moss recorded, after the General fell off the mule the day before:

“General in great pain, saying: ‘I’ve had enough. Why don’t you shoot me and get done with it’.”

Paddy writes:

Rumours of a German descent on the region had prompted Stathi to conceal us in such a cramped and precarious eyrie the night before; next morning all seemed serene: we climbed up to a commodious and beautiful ledge of rock where the General was consoled for the agonies of the ascent by the coloured blankets and the cushions spread there under the leaves by my god-brother (Stathi) and Stavro (an old drinking companion of mine) and by the marvellous banquet of roast sucking pig and kalitsounias, – crescent shaped mizithracroquettes – and the wicker demi-john of magnificent old wine which was waiting. Stathi was a great bon viveur and a paragon of kindness and generosity as well as being Kapetanios of an armed band. His eager blue eyes kindled with delight to see us demolishing his feast. He hoped, (and so did we) that we could lie up here in luxury until we slipped off over the hill to the boat. There was a rushing stream hard by and sweet smelling herbs all round us and the trees were full of nightingales. We banqueted and slept and talked and sang. The sun set through the surrounding peaks and as we lolled exulting on the soft rugs under the moon and the stars, for ever plied with fresh marvels by the two brothers, who sped to and from the village like kindly djinns, this sudden change in our affairs seemed to all of us as magical as the sudden transportation to paradise for beggars in a Persian story.’