Bletchley and a perspective on drinking from the same fountain

On the 28th April 1944, the code breakers at Bletchley Park deciphered possibly one of the most surprising stories of the Second World War. It was an intercept of a German signal stating that General Kreipe, commander of the Nazi Garrison in Crete, had been kidnapped.

By Nicholas Mellor

The code breaking huts worked in pairs. The tapes would come in from Hut 6, where Colossus churned away breaking the code. This resulted in a series of five letter groupings of words that would go to Hut 3 from Hut 6 by a connecting chute. Hut 3 was where there was an attempt to put these decoded messages into context where they could be translated, analysed and dispatched. That was where my mother came into the picture. On a watch there were normally 5 or so academics and intelligence experts responsible for reading them, translating them into English and deciding to whom they would be sent – the War Office, or the Air Ministry for example. It was my mother’s role to see they got to the right person as fast as possible. Sometimes she worked at the teleprinter sending them to London or would be asked to ring up the Cabinet office.

Bletchley Park for all its allure today was a shabby place near a railway junction with poor billeting, no clear picture of what they were actually doing or the impact they were having, and full of rather odd people. It was a very lonely time for my mother who had only just left school and found herself doing her shifts in a hut 3 at Bletchley and then trudging back to her billet next to one of the railway sidings. After the war she became a founding member with friends from SOE, or what is now the Special Forces Club. The staircase of the Club has portraits of its members or those who have been eligible if they had survived the war. The latter have ebony frames. The mix of pale pine and ebony is half in half.

One can only begin to imagine the incredulity of decrypting and then interpreting of such a message in the blizzard of messages being received at Bletchley Park, some only partially intercepted or decoded or translated or half understood. Eighty years ago it would have created a frisson in Bletchley in Buckinghamshire, but for the protagonists whether they were going to escape for Crete with both the General and their lives, were still in the balance.

On that very day the message arrived in Bletchley according to Billy Moss’s diary, PLF and the kidnap team had spent the day at Petrodolakkia with Xylouris and his Andartes (members of the Greek resistance), where they took many photos. Tom Dunbabin sent 3 members of his team from the Amari to the hideout, including Reg Everson and a wireless.

Their plan was to send a message to Cairo so that an evacuation date and beach can be identified, but their radio had broken. PLF sent off various messages, including one to Dick Barnes who has a radio station near Rethymno.

The team were joined by Andantes Grigori Chnarakis, Nikos Komis and Andoni Papaleonidas, who had walked up from the kidnap point. They were meant to bring the General’s driver, Alfred Fenske, but he has been killed on the journey.

PLF records the following incident:

‘A curious moment, dawn, streaming in the cave’s mouth, which framed the white crease of Mount Ida. We were all three lying smoking in silence, when the General, half to himself, slowly said:
“Vides ut alta stet nive candidum Soracte”

The opening line and a bit of one of the few odes of Horace I knew by heart. I was in luck. It was one of the few odes of Horace I knew by heart. I went on reciting where he had broken off:

‘… Nec iam sustineant onus
Silvae laboreantes, geluque
Flumina constiterint acuto’

… The General’s blue eyes swivelled away from the mountain-top to mine … after a long silence, he said:

‘Ach so, Herr Major!”

It was very strange.

‘Ja, Herr General.’ As though for a long moment, the war had ceased to exist. We both had drunk at the same fountains long before; and things were different between us for the rest of our time together.”

Paddy Leigh Fermor recounts this story in his book ‘Abducting a General’.

William Stanley Moss recorded in his own book ‘Ill Met by Moonlight’, this mutual love of the Classics of the General and his captor.

‘Paddy discovered that the General is a fair Greek scholar, and much to the amusement of our Cretan colleagues, the two of them entertained each other by exchanging verses from Sophocles.’

The Horatian scholar, Harry Eyres, might argue that the Odes of Horace have been working their magic for the last two thousand years, encouraging a more humble and human view of the world and extolling the virtues of fellowship.

Was it the sunlight on the frozen peak of Mount Ida that had inspired the General to think of that ode in its literal description of a snow-clad summit or was it about the whole Ode.

‘Vides ut alta stet nive candidum Soracte’ can be translated as ‘See how Soracte stands white with deep snow’

This is Harry’s translation.

Do you see the depth of snowfall,
On Soracte standing bright? This frost
Has stopped the rivers in their tracks;
The trees are bowed with their white, heavy pall.

In here we’re warm. Keep piling logs, Hugh,
On the blazing fire – and let’s uncork
A mellow four-year-old riserva,
Just the Sabine vino, not a fancy cru.

Give up trying to control the weather ; some god
Will calm the raging storm at sea.
The tall fame-cypresses and ancient ash
Won’t always shake and bend and madly nod.

Had the General realised that his best hope of escaping with his life was to set aside the grievances of him and his captors and recognise from now on they would be sharing the same food and drink?

The ode is underpinned by Horace’s Stoicism and Epicureanism. In the ode he is advising his friend Thaliarchus to seize the day (carpe diem) and enjoy the pleasures of the moment rather than worrying about a precarious future, living in the present, enjoying life’s simple pleasures, and remaining unfazed by the uncertainty of tomorrow.

Horace himself had fought against the Triumvirate, had escaped with his life and eventually set aside his own grievances to return to Rome, under the Augustan regime. Horace had sided with the forces of Brutus and Cassius after their assassination of Julius Caesar, but they were defeated by Mark Antony and Octavian (who would later be known as Augustus) at the Battle of Philippi in 42 BCE, he had to set aside his grievances and get on with the very people he had fought against.

General Kreipe might have realised that Horace’s own experience was the best he could hope for and Ode 1.9, the best advice he could have received.

Patrick Leigh Fermor’s ‘fountain’ has often been seen as representative of culture and conviviality, but perhaps the fountain was more specific, and he was thinking of Horace, his insight, his poetry and that Ode in particular.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – Dennis Ciclitira has joined them and has a working radio

May 11th 1944

Things are looking up! Dennis Ciclitira has joined them and has a working radio set up the valley in Asi Gonia. And they hear from Ianni Katsias that the closest beaches – at Rodakino – has potential as a pick up point.
They spend the day and evening resting and recovering. They are all very tired and the General is clearly suffering. Billy Moss recorded, after the General fell off the mule the day before:

“General in great pain, saying: ‘I’ve had enough. Why don’t you shoot me and get done with it’.”

Paddy writes:

Rumours of a German descent on the region had prompted Stathi to conceal us in such a cramped and precarious eyrie the night before; next morning all seemed serene: we climbed up to a commodious and beautiful ledge of rock where the General was consoled for the agonies of the ascent by the coloured blankets and the cushions spread there under the leaves by my god-brother (Stathi) and Stavro (an old drinking companion of mine) and by the marvellous banquet of roast sucking pig and kalitsounias, – crescent shaped mizithracroquettes – and the wicker demi-john of magnificent old wine which was waiting. Stathi was a great bon viveur and a paragon of kindness and generosity as well as being Kapetanios of an armed band. His eager blue eyes kindled with delight to see us demolishing his feast. He hoped, (and so did we) that we could lie up here in luxury until we slipped off over the hill to the boat. There was a rushing stream hard by and sweet smelling herbs all round us and the trees were full of nightingales. We banqueted and slept and talked and sang. The sun set through the surrounding peaks and as we lolled exulting on the soft rugs under the moon and the stars, for ever plied with fresh marvels by the two brothers, who sped to and from the village like kindly djinns, this sudden change in our affairs seemed to all of us as magical as the sudden transportation to paradise for beggars in a Persian story.’

Watch Powell & Pressburger’s Ill Met by Moonlight in full

I know this is a bit of a spolier but we all know the story don’t we? We know how it ends. The evacuation events will come early next week as the tale of the kidnap of General Kreipe reaches it’s conclusion.

As it is the weekend, you might wish to settle down in front of your TV and watch the final movie from the famed Powell and Pressburger partnership starring Dirk Bogarde (as Paddy), Cyril Cusack (as Captain Sandy Rendel), David Oxley (as W. Stanley “Billy” Moss, M.C.) and the superb Marius Goring (as Major General Heinrich Kreipe).

If you have a Smart TV with the You Tube app, just search for Ill Met by Moonlight.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – The General falls from his mule

10th May 1944

After a day resting in Photeinou the party continue to travel westward. They are heading to the Kato Poros gorge outside the village of Vilandredo.

Paddy writes: ‘A mishap occurred on this long night’s march: the girth of the General’s mule broke and sent his rider tumbling down a steep precipice. We chased after him; we thought at first that one of his shoulder blades was damaged; we arranged a sling and after a while the pain seemed to go. But his right arm remained in a sling for the rest of the journey. It was an anxious moment.

Outside the little village of Vilandredo we were met by kind and enthusiastic Stathi Loukakis and his brother, yet another Stavro.

He led us all, dog-tired and woe-begone, to a built up cave that clung to the mountainside like a martin’s nest. It was only to be reached by the clambering ascent of a steep ladder of roots and rocks – up which our disabled captive could only be hoisted by many hands and slow stages.’

Michael Powell was led to the cave in !951, and we finally tracked it down in 2015.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – Our sun is rising

Chris White (C) with Charidimos Alevizakis (L) the nephew of Ianni Tsangarakis, Paddy’s greatest friend and guide. Charidimos had been a messenger for Paddy – and told us most emphatically that he and Paddy ‘were brothers.’

9th May 1944

After another day resting in Patsos the party head westward – reinforced by George Harokopos and George Pattakos, who supplies a mule for the General to ride on.

Paddy writes:

‘Our way westward over the plateau of Yious was our familiar east to west route over the narrowest part of western Crete. “Our sun is rising”, George had said as we set off at moonrise. It was a favourite saying in these nocturnal journeys. “Off we go,” Manoli said, “Anthropoi tou Skotous.” This phrase “men of Darkness!” was a cliché that often cropped up in German propaganda when referring to people like us, and we had eagerly adopted it. We were off, I hoped, on the last lap of our journey.’

‘Among the rocks and Arbutus clumps there was an ice-cold spring which was said to bestow the gift of immortality. We all lay on our faces and lapped up as much as we could hold. I told the General about the property of the water. He leant down from the saddle of his mule and asked urgently for a second mug.’
There destination for the night is the village of Fotinou – but they have to cross the main road from Rethymno to Spili without being spotted.

‘Men with guns whistled from the rocks and when we answered ran down to meet us and shepherd the party across the perilous highway. Others joined us out of the moonlight as we climbed into the conical hills where Fotinou is perched. Suddenly there was an alarm of a German patrol approaching directly ahead. Our party, by now quite large, fanned out along a ridge and lay waiting.’

‘Luckily it was only another contingent of our growing escort. There was relief and laughter. By the time we got to the grove of Scholari outside Fotinou, we were very numerous indeed. Most of the troop was composed of old Uncle Stavro Peros and his eighteen sons and their descendents with several members of the Tzangarakis and Alevizakis families as well. Andoni, the youngest of the Peros brothers had just contracted a dynastic match with the daughter of a family with whom the Peros tribe had been locked in discord for generations; so an atmosphere of concord and rejoicing reigned in the hills.’

In 1951 the film director Michael Powell, as part of his research for “Ill Met By Moonlight’, had visited the village, and photographed the Peros family.

In our early research trips we were able to meet Despina Peros, who had married Andoni Peros – the dynastic match – and whose olive grove they had stayed in. Despina was very proud of her association with the kidnap and that she had fed the group.

And on our first research trip in 2010 we met Charidimos Alevizakis, the nephew of Ianni Tsangarakis, Paddy’s greatest friend and guide. Charidimos had been a messenger for Paddy – and told us most emphatically that he and Paddy ‘were brothers.’

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – We might have been in a drawing room

8th May 1944

Tha main party stay resting outside Patsos. Billy writes about having a bathe in the tumbling stream nearby.
In the evening Paddy and Giorgos arrive from Genna and the group are reunited again.

Paddy writes: ‘The party, when I found them, were star-scattered about a tumble-down stone hut shaded by a clump of tall plane trees and a beetling rock with a waterfall and a deep pool. George Harocopos and his old father and his pretty little sister were looking after them in this Daphnis and Chloe décor.’

‘”Good morning, General. How are you?”
“Ah, Good morning, Major. We missed you.”
We might have been in a drawing room.’

The party are joined by another villager from Patsos – Giorgos Pattakos – who we were privileged to meet several times on our early research trips

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – ‘All was going according to plan’

7th May 1944

Messages are beginning to bear fruit….and Paddy realises they will have to travel further westward. They still don’t have a plan on how to depart but they are now getting better links with Cairo via the radio set at Dryade and their brave messenger, George Psychoundakis. Paddy and George stay on in Genna a further night.

In the evening Manoli, Billy, the General and the main party travel further westward to the village of Patsos, where they stay in a sheepfold in a gorge by a tumbling stream.

Paddy writes: ‘On the night of the 7th, the party with the General moved by an easy night march to Patsos, which was only two or three hours away from me. They were being fed and guarded by George Harocopos and his family, (George, a thoughtful and well read boy, later to become a gifted journalist, was the son of a very poor, but very brave and kind family, all of whom had been great benefactors to the wandering British). All was going according to plan.’

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – “But when we saw the branding mark, We only stole the ram, Sir”

6th May 1944

Paddy and Giorgos remain based in Genna – messengers coming and going as they desperately try to arrange a safe beach to be picked up from. Giorgos Psychoundakis returns with Dick Barnes – known as Pavlos.

Paddy writes: ‘This reunion with Dick – like many occasions in occupied Crete when one wasn’t actually dodging the enemy – became the excuse for a mild blind. ‘Mr Pavlo and I set off to Yeni,’ writes George Psychoundakis in ‘The Cretan Runner’, “where we found Mr Mihali (me) and Uncle Yanni Katsias. We sat there till the evening and the sun set. Yanni took us to the east side of the village where they brought us some food and first rate wine and our Keph (well-being) was great. The four of us were soon singing. Mr Mihali sang a sheep-stealing couplet to the tune of Pentezali, which went:

Ah, Godbrother, the night was dark
For lamb and goat and dam, Sir,
But when we saw the branding mark,
We only stole the ram, Sir.

The ram – the head of the flock – meant the General.’

Billy, Manoli, the General and the rest of the kidnap team remain in the sheepfold above Gerakari.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – ‘This is very satisfactory news’

5th May 1944

Paddy and Giorgos remain in Genna, coordinating messengers. They are joined by Giorgos Harokopos and Giorgos Psychoundakis, who then heads back off to the wireless set run by Dick Barnes at Dryade with a message.

The main party in the evening leave Gomara and walk up the Amari valley via the village of Gourgouthi to their next hideout – a sheepfold above the village of Gerakari.

And in London Orme Sargent, the senior Foreign Office officer at Under Secretary level working to SOE, sends a memo to Harry Sporborg, deputy to Major-General Colin Gubbins, Head of SOE, expressing great approval of the coup. ’I have just heard of the success of an Allied Mission in Crete in capturing a high German officer. This is very satisfactory news and I hope it will be possible to get the German out to Cairo as I believe is intended.’

[1] National Archives HS 5/416

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – ‘… if my companions are feeling half as uncomfortable as I do they must be feeling terrible’

4th May 1944

The main party are still hiding in the valley of Gomara. Billy Moss records in ‘Ill Met by Moonlight’:
“It rained all night long , and, as was inevitable, we are soaked to the skin. Around me I see a picture of human misery, and I know that if my companions are feeling half as uncomfortable as I do they must be feeling terrible.”
Spirits are lifted in the afternoon when messengers arrive from Sandy Rendel and Dick Barnes.

Meanwhile in Fourfouras Paddy and Giorgos leave the comforts of Giorgos’ family home and travel 14kms further up the valley to Pantanassa…..searching for the whereabouts of a working radio set.

Paddy writes:

“Among the cypresses of Pantanasa George and I ran into a hitch. The Hieronymakis family, we knew, were in touch with at least one of our wireless stations. By ill luck it was about the only village in the region where neither of us had ever been. The Hieronymakis knew all about us, we knew all about them, but we had never met and there was no one to vouch for us. The old men were adamant: ‘You say you are Mihali, Mihali who? And who are Siphi (Ralph Stockbridge) and Pavlo (Dick Barnes)? Never heard of them. Tk. Tk. Tk! Englishmen? but, boys, all the English left Crete three years ago …?’ The white whiskered faces turned to each other for corroboration, beetling brows were raised in puzzlement, blank glances exchanged. They went on calmly fingering their amber beads, politely offering coffee. It was no good raging up and down, gesticulating under the onions and paprika pods dangling from the beams: every attempt to break through was met by identical backward tilts of head with closed eyelids and the placidly dismissive tongue click of the Greek negative. They wouldn’t give an inch until they knew (as they say) what tobacco we smoked. We could, after all, be agents provocateurs.”

“This impressive but exasperating wall of security was only broken at last, after two precious hours of deadlock, by the entry of Uncle Stavro Zourbakis from Karines – a friend of us all. Everything dissolved at once. In greetings, recognition, laughter, Raki, a crackle of thorns and sizzling in the hearth and the immediate summoning and despatch of runners to the two sets in the North West.”

Paddy and George move on for the evening back down the valley to the village of Genna, where they were to stay for several days:

“The goat-fold of Zourbovasili lay in rolling biblical hills. There was a round threshing floor nearby, where George and I could sleep on brushwood with a great circular sweep of vision. This place was to become, during the next three days, the centre of all going and coming of messengers as plans changed and options elapsed. But now, after the scrum of the last few days it seemed preternaturally quiet in the brilliant moonlight. Ida towered east of us now, Kedros due south: The White Mountains, which had come nearer to us during the day, loomed shining in the west. How empty and still after our huddled mountain life, was this empty silver plateau! A perfect place to watch the moon moving across the sky and chain smoke through the night pondering on the fix we were in and how to get out of it. There was not a sound except a little owl in a wood close by and an occasional clank from Vassilis’ flock.”

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – The Telegraph reports ‘martial law’ being declared on Crete

3rd May 1944

Another day spent in their hideout in the valley of Gomara. They are still stuck and have no contact with Cairo, and no idea of when, where or how they will get off the island.

But they have a plan….in the evening the party decide to separate.

Billy, Manoli Paterakis, the General and the main kidnap group will stay in Gomara.

Paddy and Giorgos Tyrakis will travel in the evening up the Amari to Fourfouras, Giorgos’ home village, in search of a working radio station.

They still remain in the news in the UK – the Telegraph reports ‘martial law’ being declared on Crete.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – Front page news

2nd May 1944

If only they knew!

Paddy, Billy, the rest of the kidnap team and the General spend another miserable day in the ditch, fearing capture…but it is getting quieter for them, as the German patrols are now searching further up the mountain.

Meanwhile in the UK ….they are front page news – in the Express, Telegraph, Guardian and Times!

In the evening they decide to move a kilometre or so westward – to the valley of Gomara.

Giorgos Pharangoulitakis describes it his memoir ‘Eagles of Mt Ida’: ‘We decided to shift towards the valley of Gomara, just west of Ayia Paraskevi, a part where they had searched every inch, and where we could take up a better defence posture. It was a steep rocky place with a hole like a sort of grotto under a cliff where we could hide for the night.’

In the end they spend the night and the following day under the branches of ‘a very large pear tree …it was like an eagles nest’.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – ‘the General realises that our capture would prove fatal for him’

1st May 1944

A long and dangerous day spent hiding in the ditch outside Agia Paraskevi. Probably the low point for all in the journey, and where they are most vulnerable to discovery by the German cordon – Moss records Kreipe’s realisation of his personal need for the success of the operation in order to ensure his own survival:

“I think the General realises that our capture would prove fatal for him.”

They can hear German patrols, sometimes as close as 50 metres, searching for them.

Paddy records that food is brought to them from Agia Paraskevi:

‘Antoni unpacked bread, cheese, onions, a dish of fried potatoes, some lamb and a napkin full of ‘kalitsounia!’ – crescent shaped fritters full of soft white cheese and chopped mint. Then a big bottle of mulberry raki came out and a handful of little tumblers. ‘This will warm you up,’ he said filling them: ‘White flannel vests all round.’ He splashed politely over to our guest with the first one, saying ‘stratege mou” (my General) then to the rest of us. They went down our throats like wonderful liquid flame. ‘And here,’ he said pulling out a gallon of dark amber wine, ‘red overcoats for all.’

What they don’t know is that in Cairo SOE have made a public announcement that Kreipe has been kidnapped and has already been taken off the island by submarine and is on his way to Cairo.

However they are still stuck, with no way of contacting Cairo and have no idea – as yet – of how they will get off the island.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – The descent of Mt Ida

30th April 1944

The descent of Mt Ida has been exceptionally arduous in the dark so the day is spent recovering in Vorini Trypa, the large cave above Nithavris on the side of Mt. Ida.

That evening, in the rain and mist, they leave the cave and head further down the mountain into the bottom the Amari valley.

It is a difficult and very dangerous journey as the Germans are hunting for the General and are in all the villages immediately around them.

They first head west to the village of Kouroutes and then south until they stop and hide in a stream bed outside Agia Paraskevi.

Paddy records: Rain came swishing down: ‘Marvelous for the olives’, Manoli murmured. We waded through a stream and began to climb again. The rain turned to sleet. At last the village of Aya Paraskevi was only half an hour away. The Germans would have sentries out, perhaps patrols; better to stop there. We piled into a ditch mercifully overgrown with cistus, thyme and myrtle; protection from view, but not from the rain.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – The ascent of Mount Ida in wind and snow

In the snow on top of Mount Ida

29th April 1944

The weather is deteriorating and the kidnap team need to walk over the side of Mt Ida and down into the Amari valley. It will be a long and arduous day and night.

At midday the party leave Petradolakkia and skirt the side of the Nidha plateau. They are heading for the mitato belonging to Roti, where they will rendezvous with Kapetan Petrakogiorgos and his andartes who will escort them over the side of the mountain. They climb up to the plateau of Akolyta and in rain, wind and snow they head over until they can see signal fires in the Amari telling them it is safe to descend. They shelter in the remains of a mitato before descending. After a long and arduous descent they are led to Vorini Trypa – North Hole – a large cave with tunnels and caverns heading off from the back of it. This cave has been used by the Resistance on several occasions before this visit, and is used by Dunbabin and George Psychoundakis in August 1944.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – “Ach so, Herr Major.”

28th April 1944.

PLF and the kidnap team spend the day at Petrodolakkia with Xylouris and his andartes, where they take many photos. Tom Dunbabin has sent 3 members of his team from the Amari to the hideout, including Reg Everson and a wireless. The plan is to send a message to Cairo so that an evacuation date and beach can be identified, but the radio is broken. They are stuck. PLF sends off various messages, including one to Dick Barnes who has a radio station near Rethymno. The team are joined by Grigori Chnarakis, Nikos Komis and Andoni Papaleonidas, who have walked up from the kidnap point. They are meant to bring with them the General’s driver, Alfred Fenske, but he has been killed on the journey.
At Bletchley Park the codebreakers decode a German signal stating that Kreipe has been kidnapped.

PLF records the following incident:

‘A curious moment, dawn, streaming in the cave’s mouth, which framed the white crease of Mount Ida. We were all three lying smoking in silence, when the General, half to himself, slowly said:

“Vides ut alta stet nive candidum Soracte”

The opening line and a bit of one of the few odes of Horace I know by heart. I was in luck.

” … Nec jam sustineant onus” I went on
“silvae laborantes geluque
Flumina constiterint acuto”

And continued through the other stanzas to the end of the ode. After a few seconds silence, the General said: “Ach so, Herr Major.” For five minutes the war had evaporated without a trace.[i]

[i] William Stanley Moss recorded this mutual love of the Classics in ‘Ill Met by Moonlight.’

‘Paddy discovered that the General is a fair Greek scholar, and, much to the amusement of our Cretan colleagues, the two of them entertained each other by exchanging verses from Sophocles.’

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – PLF and George Tyrakis rendezvous with the team

27th April 1944.

PLF and George Tyrakis rendezvous with the General and the rest of the kidnap team north of Anogia. In the evening they begin the long trek up the slopes of Mt Ida to the Xylouris sheepfolds at Petrodolakkia. On the way they rest briefly in one of the many mitatos (cheese huts) in the area.

80th anniversay of the kidnap of General Kreipe – Third time lucky … the kidnap is on!

The first in the series of reposts of Chris White’s ‘diary’ of the events of the capture and kidnap of General Kreipe in Crete 80 years ago today. I first posted these in 2021 to keep readers occupied during the dreadful Covid lockdowns.

This repeat series is posted to honour the memory of all those involved from the brave Cretan Andartes, Patrick Leigh Fermor, other members of SOE and SBS, and the many Cretan civilians who aided the kidnap team, as well as all those who suffered under Nazi German occupation.

Captain William ‘Billy’ Stanley Moss MC, Coldstream Guards

A special tribute to Major William Stanley Moss, known to all as ‘Billy’ who, as a Captain at the time, was the second-in command of the operation and often lived under Leigh Fermor’s shadow. Billy was an out and out soldier. He fought between October 1942 and July 1943 with Montgomery’s Eighth Army chasing Rommel across North Africa after Alamein. In the aftermath of Operation Corkscrew, his battalion was then sent to garrison Pantelleria. He returned to Cairo, where he volunteered to join Force 133 of the Special Operations Executive (SOE) on 24 September 1943 where he met Paddy and Countess Zofia (Sophie) Tarnowska who was to become his wife. He continued to fight in Crete, then Greece, and in 1945 was parachuted into Thailand still serving with SOE. Billy was the author of Ill Met by Moonlight which is his detailed account of the kidnap, and War of Shadows as well as many other titles.

Moss was recommended for and received the Immediate Award of the Military Cross following the Kreipe abduction.

23 May 1944 Recommendation for MC.

This officer showed exceptional gallantry in taking part, with Major Leigh Fermor, in the organization and execution of the kidnapping of Major-General Kreipe at Arkhanes, Crete on 26 April 1944. It was due to Captain Moss’s swiftness in attacking the General’s car that the operation was made possible.

In the early stages of the kidnapping, Capt. Moss impersonated the chauffeur of the General’s car and for an hour and a half drove “the General” through Heraklion and passed 22 controlled road blocks before the car was finally abandoned. Subsequently Capt. Moss assisted in moving the General during a period of 17 days through enemy held territory.

For outstanding courage and audacity Capt. Moss is recommended for the Immediate Award of the MC.

Special thanks once more to Chris White for his exceptional work for this series and of course his co-authorship of Abducting a General.

If you want to read more about the events of April and May 1944 please click on the Tags that accompany each post at its end. You will find that there are literally hundreds of other items of news, analysis and memories.

Over to Chris …

26th April 1944.

Third time lucky…..the Kreipe kidnap team leave the Zographistos farmhouse outside Skalani and walk to the kidnap spot and wait for the General to drive past. At 9 pm they stop the car and the kidnap begins. The General is handcuffed and hidden on the back seat of the car. They drive past the Villa Ariadne and through Heraklion, entering by the Agios Giorgos gate and leaving by the Chaniaporta. They drive on into the mountains, stopping at Yeni Gave, where Billy Moss, Manoli Paterakis, Stratis Saviolakis and the General leave the car, heading up a track for a hideout in a ravine north of Anogia. PLF and Georgos Tyrakis drive for a further 2 kms and dump the car at Campo Doxaro, at the start of a track leading to the Cheliana ravine and the sea. They take with them the pennants from the car and head to the village of Anogia.

The 2024 Transylvanian book festival 12-15 September 2024

IMG_4419Lucy Abel-Smith and Bronwyn Riley have commenced bookings for the 5th Transylvanian Book Festival to be helf in beautiful Richis in Transylvania over the period 12-15 September 2024. There is also an optional extension to visit the unique painted monasteries of Moldavia.

Lucy says of this year’s festival …

The theme of this year’s festival is Transylvania, Centre of Europe a celebration of the region’s rich and diverse history and its place at the heart of European culture. As ever we have a thrilling list of international speakers, journalists, academics, poets, musicians, cooks and historians.

The festival starts on Thursday evening with a party for friends and patrons at
Lucy Abel Smith’s restored Saxon village house in the medieval village of Richis. This will be the patrons’ hub during the next three delicious days of books, music, poetry, food, drink, discussion and excursions into the Transylvanian countryside.

Following our usual format, we will have talks and discussions each day, a series of picturesque lunches and dinners in historic settings; excursions to surrounding towns and villages, and music and film in the evenings, all included for our patrons in the programme.

History will be brought to life by Marc David Baer who will speak about the Ottomans in Europe. In the medieval church of Richis, Ciprian Firea will discuss the recent remarkable uncovering of a medieval painting in the chancel and the parish priest patrons of Renaissance Transylvania. Richard Bassett will give an eyewitness account of more recent history – the overthrow of Ceausescu which he reported on for The Times. Delicious local cooking is always an important part of the festival and food writer Irina Georgescu will whet our appetites with her talk and cookery demonstration.

Monastery of Voronets

After the festival Bronwen Riley is taking a small group up to Michael de Styrcea’s beautifully restored manor house, Valeni, which will be our luxurious base for gentle walks and visits to the painted monasteries 16-20 September.

Find out more and how to book on the Transylvanian Book Festival website or call Lucy to discuss on 01285 750358. Meanwhile enjoy this short video of the 2013 festival.

William Stanley Moss’ Diary April 1944

William Stanley Moss in Crete 1944

We are of course approaching the 80th anniversary of D-Day and the event that preceded it, the kidnap of General Kreipe are approaching their 80th anniversaries. I propose to repeat a series of posts written by Chris White that we placed on here back in Covid times and which run through the series of events from the day of the kidnap onwards.

For various reasons the remaining material in this particular post is no longer publicly available.

Easter 1934 – Paddy arrives on the bridge at Esztergom (extract read by Sian Phillips)

An Easter treat for you. Siân Phillips reads from page 277 of A Time of Gifts (paperback) as Paddy arrives at the Danube, spots Esztergom, has his passport stamped by Czechoslovakian border guards, and lingers ‘in the middle of the bridge, meditatively poised in no man’s air.’

‘The air was full of hints and signs. There was a flicker and a swishing along the river like the breezy snip-snap of barbers’ scissors before they swoop and slice. It was the skimming and twirling of newly arrived swifts. A curve in the stream was re-arranging the landscape as I advanced, revealing some of the roofs of Esztergom and turning the Basilica to a new angle as though it were on a pivot. The rolling wooded range of the Bakony Forest had advanced north from the heart of Transdanubia, and the corresponding promontory on the northern shore – the last low foothills of the Marra mountains, whose other extremity subsides in the north eastern tip of Hungary – jutted into the water under the little town of Parkan. Reaching for each other, the two headlands coerced the rambling flood yet once more into a narrower and swifter flow and then spanned the ruffie with an iron bridge. Spidery at first, the structure grew more solid as the distance dwindled. (Twenty miles east of this bridge, the Danube reaches a most important point in its career: wheeling round the ultimate headland of the Balcony Forest and heading due south for the first time on its journey, it strings itself through Budapest like a thread through a bead and drops across the map of Europe plumb for a hundred and eighty miles, cutting Hungary clean in half. Then, reinforced by the Drava, it turns east again, invades Yugoslavia, swallows up the Sava under the battlements of Belgrade, and sweeps on imperturbably to storm the Iron Gates.)

In an hour, I had climbed the cliff-path into the main street of Parkan. A little later my passport was stamped at the frontier post at the Czechoslovakian end of the bridge. The red, white and green barrier of the frontier post at the far end marked the beginning of Hungary. I lingered in the middle of the bridge, meditatively poised in no man’s air.’

(Extract from A Time of Gifts by Patrick Leigh Fermor, with thanks to John Murray Publishers.)

This article was first posted on this blog Easter 2018

The Oldie podcast – Patrick Leigh Fermor talks about his capture of General Kreipe

In this latest edition of The Oldie podcast, Blandford Forum’s leading travel writer and my good friend Harry Bucknall is joined by General Sir Mike Jackson to discuss the events of the Kreipe kidnap which is approaching its 80th anniversary. The podcast also includes comments from Paddy as he recalled the events in subsequent interviews.

As it says in The Oldie:

In this edition of The Oldie Podcast, marking the 80th anniversary of one of the most daring SOE operations of the Second World War, the kidnap of Major General Heinrich Kreipe by the Greek Andartes led by Sir Patrick Leigh Fermor, writer Harry Bucknall and General Sir Michael Jackson, Chief of the General Staff 2003 – 2006, discuss the challenges, achievements and legacy of one of the most notable episodes of World War Two – an escapade of Elizabethan proportion, immortalised by W Stanley “Billy” Moss, Leigh Fermor’s second in command, in his 1950 book, Ill Met by Moonlight which later, was made into a popular film starring Dirk Bogarde.

Listen to the podcast here

La Vie a Bucarest – Chronique Mondaine

While doing some semi-related research, Richard Augood stumbled across the following press clippings from the society page titled ‘La Vie a Bucarest – Chronique Mondaine’, in Le Moment, the main french-language newspaper of Bucharest at the time. Richard was kind enough to send them to me to share with you all.

According to Wikipedia , Le Moment was a French language daily newspaper published from Bucharest. The newspaper was founded in 1935 by Alfred Hefter, and was in serious financial difficulties and about to go under in 1939. The paper eventually ceased publication in 1940.

This snippet comes from the edition of 12 January 1936 and you will notice that Balasha Cantacuzene was also there. Quelle surprise!

Le Moment mentions Patri(c)k Leigh Fermor 12 January 1936

and this is from the same section of the same publication’s 9 May 1936 edition:

Le Moment mentions Patri(c)k Leigh Fermor 9 May 1936

Richard comments:

What’s notable is that PLF seems to have had absolutely nothing to do with the large and active British community in Bucharest at the time. He is never mentioned in any of the numerous newspaper articles of the time that relate to them, often with lengthy lists of names.

Richard found them on a site called Arcanum, which is a Hungarian repository of thousands and thousands of scans of newspapers from Hungary and Romania. He hasn’t actually searched the site for any mentions of other characters who crop up in The Trudge, as he is busy researching something quite different (Olivia Manning-related) and he just stumbled across these by chance.

Arcanum is a paid site, and he has offered to look anything up and run a few queries. Dear readers, do you have any suggestions? Add them to the comments section.

Mapping the Leigh Fermors’ Journey Through the Deep Mani in 1951

Major waypoints that the Leigh Fermors visited during their trip through the Deep Mani.

Major waypoints that the Leigh Fermors visited during their trip through the Deep Mani.

I don’t recall precisely when Chelsea Gardner first contacted me about this project but it was probably in 2018/19. It is wonderful to see that they have finished this work of love and dedication, but also one that tries to be true to the routes and methods used by Paddy and Joan as they made their way around the Deep Mani in 1951.

There is a fascinating interactive map of the route here.

This is the work of Rebecca M. Seifried, Chelsea A.M. Gardner, and Maria Tatum, and was published online by Cambridge University Press on 26 April 2023.

The abstract states:

In the summer of 2019, members of the CARTography Project set out to re-create the route that Patrick and Joan Leigh Fermor took during their first visit to the Deep Mani in 1951. The project involved meticulously analysing the couple’s notebooks and photographs to glean details about where they had ventured, using least-cost analysis to model their potential routes and ground-truthing the results by walking and boating the routes ourselves.

As in much of rural Greece, Mani’s topography has changed substantially in the seven decades since the Leigh Fermors’ journey, with paved roads having replaced many of the Ottoman-era footpaths that locals once relied on for travel and transportation. While the transformed landscape we encountered prevented a complete re-enactment of the Leigh Fermors’ journey, it also offered an opportunity to embody key parts of their travelling experience. The results of our study are twofold: first, a detailed map of the route the Leigh Fermors followed based on our reading of their documentary sources; and second, an assessment of the utility of using least-cost analysis to model the routes of historical travellers.

Vist the Cambridge University Press site here.

Download and read the PDF report here.

The whereabouts of Imogen Grundon biographer of John Pendlebury

John Pendlebury at Knossos

I am trying to contact Imogen Grundon who is John Pendlebury’s biographer, in relation to a potential event later in the year.

***UPDATE – thanks to some quick responses Imogen and I are now in touch! Thank you all. ***

If anyone is aware of her contact details and is willing to share them please get in touch with me via the Contact page.

Meanwhile, John Pendlebury is a most fascinating character and there’s loads about him on the blog here.

As many wil be aware, Paddy wrote the foreward to the biography.

Event: The British Love Affair with Romania

Bronwen Riley and Lucy Abel Smith who run the Transylvanian Book Festival (to be held in September 2024) will be giving this talk as the second in their series of fundraisers for the Transylvanian Book Festival.

The event is generously hosted by the Romanian Cultural Institute, and will be held at 1 Belgrave Square, London.

In the warm-up to Valentine’s Day, and sharing the love for Romania, we offer you stories of love and intrigue which span the course of history, from the time of the ancient Dacian king Decebal to our King Charles III.

How Patrick Leigh Fermor would have loved this. No doubt he would have leapt up to tell a tale and everyone would miss their train home!

This is a free event in support of the Transylvanian Book Festival, which takes place in Richis, 12-15 September 2024, but donations are welcome and booking is essential.

When:Thursday 8 February 2024 starting at 7.00pm

Location: Romanian Cultural Institute, 1 Belgrave Square, London, SW1X 8PH

Book your place here!

Details about the book festival can be found here.

John Julius Norwich talking about his great friend Patrick Leigh Fermor

Sometimes I think that I have found most of the gems about Paddy (there are still many in my backlog to post), but the other day whilst casting around I came across this snippet. The late and great John Julius Norwich talking about Paddy in an interview series (this is 94 of 136 so the rest must be fascinating).

You know all this and have heard it before, but the magic is still there. Enjoy!

Event – From London to Messolonghi and Back: Echoes of Eternal Journeys

The Centre for Hellenic Studies are running a series of events over the coming weeks. For those of you that can make it to London you might find the first of particular interest to be held at 7.00pm on 26 January.

The event will be held in the Great Hall of King’s College London (Strand campus), where we will embark on a journey exploring Lord Byron’s life and part of his work through a variety of approaches. The event will open with Byron’s poem, ‘The isles of Greece’, set to music by composer Stamatis Chatziefstathiou – sung by Andriana Mpampali in the album ‘Έλληνες Φιλέλληνες’. The three parts of the event will be:

A talk by Roderick Beaton, Emeritus Koraes Professor, titled ‘From London to Missolonghi – and back in a barrel of rum: Byron’s life in Greece’;
A documentary called ‘From Messolonghi to London: 200 years later’; and
A performative work-in-progress on Byron’s Manfred called ‘Manfred Echoes’, presented by the actors Konstantinos Delidimoudis and Vassileia Kenanoglou and the cellist Thodoris Papadimitriou.
A wine reception will follow. The event will be in English and in Greek.

Further details of this and their other events can be found here.

 

Ralph Stockbridge obituary (again!)

Almost the very first article I posted back in 2010 when I started this blog was not about Paddy at all, although he does get a mention. It was the obituary of SOE officer Ralph Stockbridge. Times have changed and business models have moved on. What was once a free to view link to the Daily Telegraph site is now behind a paywall. So as not to lose this gem, the obituary is posted below.

Ralph Stockbridge, who has died aged 92, was awarded two MCs for the notable part that he played in the Cretan Resistance to the German occupation; he spent the remainder of his career working for MI6.

Stockbridge (centre, in the spectacles) with some of his comrades in Crete

When Crete fell to an airborne invasion in May 1941, Stockbridge, then a signals sergeant in the Field Security Corps, was evacuated to Egypt with the remnants of the Allied forces on the island. He promptly asked to return, and was put in touch with the Inter Services Liaison Department (a cover name at GHQ for MI6).

Stockbridge and Captain Jack Smith-Hughes, an SOE officer, were infiltrated into Crete in October 1941 aboard the submarine Thunderbolt. They later learned that this vessel was originally Thetis, which had sunk on its trials in Liverpool Bay in 1939 with the loss of many lives. The boat sank for the second and final time, with the loss of all hands, in 1943.

They were the first British mission to return to Crete, and were charged with developing its resistance movement. Stockbridge had never discovered what the duties of Field Security were, but he had become fluent in Cretan Greek while stationed there, and had made many contacts in the Heraklion area. This knowledge was now put to good use.

Despite being constantly on the run, he managed to keep transmitting valuable information to Cairo. Sometimes he operated from a cave high in the mountains. Drinking water was collected from stalactites. Meals in “safe houses” consisting of seed potatoes washed down with mugs of orange peel tea were recalled with nostalgia when their food later ran out and he and his comrades had to subsist on grass soup, wild herbs and snails.

When Stockbridge organised a parachute drop, little fell within the dropping zone. Sacks of flour could be seen bursting on distant rocks, while other supplies slid down steep precipices and could not be retrieved.

Clean-shaven, wearing shoes rather than boots, an overcoat and horn-rimmed spectacles, his appearance and stumbling gait matched his “cover” story: that he was a village schoolmaster. He used the name Michalaki, and later, Siphi.

Sometimes he had to go into towns and pass checkpoints manned by German security police. “They must have been blind not to see me trembling,” he said afterwards.

If the Cretans were caught helping the British, they could expect savage reprisals. Despite the hazards, as Stockbridge said afterwards: “Everything depended throughout on their magnificent loyalty. Without their help with guides, informants and suppliers of food, not a single one of us would have lasted 24 hours.”

On one occasion, he and a comrade were being pursued by a large patrol of Germans and Italians. Forced to hide their equipment and make a stand, they killed six of their pursuers.

On another, he was going through a checkpoint with Levtheri Kalitsounakis, who acted as his assistant. Stockbridge passed the inspection, but Kalitsounakis – who had reddish hair and green eyes – was suspected of not looking like a Cretan and was stopped and closely questioned.

Stockbridge was so distracted that he bumped into a German soldier. “Gosh! Sorry!” he said in English.

Then, realising what he had done, he had to fight the temptation to take to his heels, and instead stroll casually away.

In April 1942, three months after being commissioned, he found himself in even greater danger, after being betrayed. Evacuated to Egypt in May and awarded an MC, he volunteered to go back again.

In early 1943 he and his wireless operator, John Stanley, were re-infiltrated aboard a Greek submarine. They rowed ashore in a rubber dinghy and landed on the north coast of the island. As they came in, they gave the password to some Cretans who arrived in a small boat. These men, who had been fishing illegally, feared that they had been discovered by the Germans; they panicked and disappeared.

On going ashore, Stockbridge and his companion found themselves in a minefield. They extricated themselves and moved further down the coast, where their first contact was Paddy Leigh Fermor. While Stockbridge, the senior MI6 officer on the island, based himself at Rethymno and gathered intelligence in the central and eastern parts of the island, Leigh Fermor concentrated on his work for SOE.

After the German surrender, Stockbridge’s service of three years in Crete, two and a half of them during enemy occupation, was recognised by a Bar to his MC. He was also made an honorary citizen of Rethymno.

Ralph Hedley Stockbridge was born at Bournemouth on April 18 1917 and educated at the Perse School, Cambridge. It had been decided that he should have a classical education, a decision with which he complied without enthusiasm.

He set a precedent by resigning from the Officers Training Corps because he disliked the excessively militaristic member of the staff who ran it and he considered the wearing of puttees a tiresome relic of the Boer War. On the sports field, he captained the 1st XV and the athletics team and, in the one year he boxed, he won the Under Nine Stone title.

In 1935 he broke his leg playing rugby. The enforced absence from school and the encouragement of the senior classics master resulted in Ralph taking the Cambridge examination on crutches and winning a scholarship to Peterhouse. He spent the next three years in pleasant indolence and took an upper second.

After the war he joined MI6 – where he was known as Mike – on a permanent basis. As vice-consul in the Salonika consulate-general from 1946 to 1950 he reported on the intelligence aspects of the Greek civil war.

He was vice-consul in Alexandria from 1952 to 1954, and over the next few years spent time in Beirut, Tehran, Baghdad and Syria. He was at the British embassy in Athens from 1959 to 1966.

In 1961 Henry Leach (later Admiral of the Fleet Sir Henry Leach) paid an official visit to Heraklion. The British ambassador asked Stockbridge, then the First Secretary, to accompany him. At the reception on board, many of the guests were Stockbridge’s former wartime comrades.

Leach wrote in his memoirs: “They were marvellous people with walnut-like faces from constant exposure to the elements. Few wore collars or ties. Such was their personality that their complete inability to speak a word of English seemed not to detract at all from the conviviality of the occasion.

“They were drawn to Ralph Stockbridge as to a magnet and treated him as if he were a much loved God… It was one of the most remarkable and moving reunions I have ever been privileged to attend.”

Stockbridge returned to England in 1966 and served with MI6 in London until 1972. On his retirement he spent six happy years as bursar of St Faith’s preparatory school in Cambridge. Settled in a village in Cambridgeshire, he had more time to enjoy his books, his large stamp collection and corresponding with his many friends, most of them Greek or French.

Ralph Stockbridge died on March 10. He married first (dissolved), in 1948, Margaret Elizabeth Garrett. He married secondly, in 1963, Katharine Price. They survive him with a son and a daughter from his first marriage and two daughters from his second.

Twelfth Night by Louis MacNeice

Louis MacNeice

Louis MacNeice

We all know the line “For now the time of gifts is gone” but are we familiar with the full poem? Louis MacNeice wrote Twelfth Night shortly after the end of World War 2. It is one of a group in which MacNeice records the loosening of the social bonds that bound British citizens, and the armed forces in particular, during the war.

Twelfth Night by Louis MacNeice

Snow-happy hicks of a boy’s world –
O crunch of bull’s-eyes in the mouth,
O crunch of frost beneath the foot –
If time would only remain furled
In white, and thaw were not for certain
And snow would but stay put, stay put!

When the pillar-box wore a white bonnet –
O harmony of roof and hedge,
O parity of sight and thought –
And each flake had your number on it
And lives were round for not a number
But equalled nought, but equalled nought!

But now the sphinx must change her shape –
O track that reappears through slush,
O broken riddle, burst grenade –
And lives must be pulled out like tape
To measure something not themselves,
Things not given but made, but made.

For now the time of gifts is gone –
O boys that grow, O snows that melt,
O bathos that the years must fill –
Here is dull earth to build upon
Undecorated; we have reached
Twelfth Night or what you will … you will.