The second of Christian Peter’s walks.
2. The old Kalderimi to the village of Altomirá – Exo Mani
a. I have often been thinking which way Paddy and Joan might have taken when they first walked over the Taygetos Mountains into the Mani in summer 1952. Starting in Anavriti they probably headed towards Pighadia and Altomirá. That means they must have come down the fantastic Kalderimi from Altomirá to Kambos. For me this is even today the most impressive way to reach the Mani.
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- Agios Nikolaos
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- Altomira
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- Kalderimi from Kambos
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- Kalderimi to Altomira
Patrick Leigh Fermor 
Odd Paddy doesn’t mention this splendid kalderimi in ‘Mani’. It’s such a striking construction. Quite phenomenal. The other route would be along the edge of the Koskaraka Gorge and through Gaitses. (the photo in the hardback Mani is misspelt as Galtes and in the text) I think it maybe Vorio (the ‘northern of the Gaitses villages, from there the road does indeed wind gently down to Kambos and its “Vlachs” a common enough insult in Greek. Though I know some splendid people from Kambos!
Impreesive landscapes – and even more impressive roads! Only a well-ordered society can make such roads. The myth of the primitive and backwars Maniotes is maybe just that – a myth?
The work of the local Kapetanoi (tribal leaders and powerful men) in the 18th century. I had a late friend Theo Tsouleas, who had mapped them all. Wonder what happened to his researches?
Dear John,
I would really be interested in his kalderimi-map. Is it possible to gain access?